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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 3:13 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 9:19 am
Posts: 2093
Location: Sheffield, top city
I always ran 8 speed campag levers with a shimano rear mech on a shimano 6 speed cassette & it ran perfectly. You're trying it with a 7 speed cassette, which I can't comment on.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 4:04 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2012 8:38 pm
Posts: 492
pigman wrote:
I always ran 8 speed campag levers with a shimano rear mech on a shimano 6 speed cassette & it ran perfectly. You're trying it with a 7 speed cassette, which I can't comment on.


theoretically the 6spd would be eaiser, as it has wider spacing, so, in the end I might just re-space the cassette and swap out the largest cog :D :D


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 9:34 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 4:31 pm
Posts: 740
I still say that by looking at 6 or 7 speed you are giving up too easily and worrying about theory not practice :lol:


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 Post subject: Problem solved...
PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 10:02 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2012 8:38 pm
Posts: 492
WHy? :D Btw, I've adjusted the cable tension a bit, and it seems to be okay now, perfect shifting through the cassette even when I pedal standing upright eg.: up to a hill or sprinting.

Really, I started cycling this september, and after using 19kg city bikes for years with hub gears this Basso http://kepfeltoltes.hu/130124/K_p0207_w ... es.hu_.jpg is just so light-fast and responsive (weighs 9.8 kg without those nasty pedals) that I can't imagine what can a modern road bike with new wheels feel like. : D

So practically I don't even know whether it's possible to get faster-preciser shifting with diff. setup, as the derailleurs do their jobs perfectly now : D

http://kepfeltoltes.hu/130124/K_p0213_w ... es.hu_.jpg

ahh those downtube cable adjusters cost me more than the 3ttt stem :( yet I find them useful for fine-tuning the cables...

Now I need to look after new problems-things to improve, as I hate when everything is perfect and I don't have to find solutions for existing problems... :(


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 9:48 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2012 8:38 pm
Posts: 492
So far, so good. Still get some extra jump in the middle occasionally, but mostly during downshifts, it's perect while upshifting.

I've found that those cable adjusters on the downtube are very useful-handy, they are perfext for adjusting cable tension even while riding.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 10:24 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 07, 2013 10:10 pm
Posts: 1
kbmpi wrote:
So far, so good. Still get some extra jump in the middle occasionally, but mostly during downshifts, it's perect while upshifting.


Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I thought I could lend a little insight on your Shimergo setup as I use Campagnolo 8s Ergo shifters with a Shimano 7s HG cassette. If you replace the Shimano rear mech with a pre-2001 indexed Campy unit (not the old-old stuff, anything Ergo compatible 8s up through 2001) you'll get the correct pull of 5mm.

You've got it working nice enough it sounds, but I just wanted to let you know I've been running that combination for over a year with a few thousand reliable miles.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 5:18 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2012 8:38 pm
Posts: 492
yunkk wrote:
kbmpi wrote:
So far, so good. Still get some extra jump in the middle occasionally, but mostly during downshifts, it's perect while upshifting.


Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I thought I could lend a little insight on your Shimergo setup as I use Campagnolo 8s Ergo shifters with a Shimano 7s HG cassette. If you replace the Shimano rear mech with a pre-2001 indexed Campy unit (not the old-old stuff, anything Ergo compatible 8s up through 2001) you'll get the correct pull of 5mm.

You've got it working nice enough it sounds, but I just wanted to let you know I've been running that combination for over a year with a few thousand reliable miles.


Don't worry, I've covered a few miles with 7spd plus campy ergo-dérailleur combo, and it was perfect, but simply could not resist the quality of campy hubs.. so i have a full 8spd drivetrain now:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/97878439@N ... 374775884/


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 5:20 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 17, 2013 5:15 pm
Posts: 2
I have also created the same set up, 7 speed freewheel (Shimano MF-TZ21), Athena 8 speed ergo shifters and mech. Doesn't line up for me, the mech moves too far, if it is aligned on cog 1, by cog 5 it is seriously rattling, cog 6 jumps up to 7. Even bought a second mech as the first one I bought was a 9 speed Daytona and although it appeared to be pre 2001 I figured I must have been wrong, but the 8 speed is exactly the same. Gutted. Tried to Hubbub it but it didn't fix anything for me.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 9:16 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 4:31 pm
Posts: 740
Just a though. If running a freewheel you could bung on an 8 speed freewheel. It will be fine then.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 9:25 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 9:19 am
Posts: 2093
Location: Sheffield, top city
markypea wrote:
I have also created the same set up, 7 speed freewheel (Shimano MF-TZ21), Athena 8 speed ergo shifters and mech. Doesn't line up for me, the mech moves too far, if it is aligned on cog 1, by cog 5 it is seriously rattling, cog 6 jumps up to 7. Even bought a second mech as the first one I bought was a 9 speed Daytona and although it appeared to be pre 2001 I figured I must have been wrong, but the 8 speed is exactly the same. Gutted. Tried to Hubbub it but it didn't fix anything for me.

not doubting you, you're there to see it, but if the parts are what you say, it should work fine. Has someone put different ratchets inside the ergos at some point (so even tho' it says 8 speed, they actually work 9 or 10)?


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