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PostPosted: Sat Jul 09, 2011 6:33 pm 
Newbie

Joined: Wed Apr 28, 2010 9:53 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Central Scotland
Just recently inherited a Claud Butler Super Dalesman from (I think) the late 80's. A quick service and clean up and it looks to be riding nicely :D .

The paint looks to be fairly original but the frame has no Reynolds stickers. Am I right in thinking the frame would have been made from 501 or 531?

I'll dig out the camera tomorrow and take some pictures, I'd be interested to hear folks opinions on whether to have the frame refinised or just treat the rusty bits and leave as is.

regards
grant


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 1:44 am 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Thu May 29, 2008 11:11 pm
Posts: 1134
Location: Letchworth Garden City
The Dalesman's were 531ST, here's the brochure from 1986 I think http://www.nkilgariff.com/CBcats/Cat_86 ... sman86.jpg


Last edited by tonyf39 on Mon Sep 05, 2011 11:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 10:05 pm 
Newbie

Joined: Wed Apr 28, 2010 9:53 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Central Scotland
Tony, thanks for the info on the frame, not sure why the Reynolds stickers are missing, paint looks to be original :? .

Managed to take a couple of pictures, including some of some rusty bits on the frame, but I've just discovered that I need some more posts before I can attach them.

This being the first classic bike refurbish I've tried I'm uncertain as to the level of rust that can be easily repaired, is a local touch up worth trying or is it always best to go for a complete frame refinish?

I've stripped the bike down and given it a good service and surprisingly all it needs other than the cosmetic work is as set of tyres and tubes, unfortunately the sidewalls on the whitewall/blue stripe Hutchisons are gone in couple of places and are beyond saving.

Once the tyres are on I'll head for the country and see how it feels on a decent ride, looking forward to a more comfortable trip than on my old '92 Kona Kilauea

thanks
grant


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 1:05 am 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Thu May 29, 2008 11:11 pm
Posts: 1134
Location: Letchworth Garden City
Most go with the clean it up and don't do anything to the paintwork method (other than to protect it) which personally I think is always the best if you're just going to ride it.
A full paintjob to original condition is expensive and even Reynolds stickers can be pricey. As the shiny new looking frame then shows up the components cosmetically people oft go through the ritual of searching for nos/near new parts. Time consuming and more money again.
Obviously that gets you a mint looking bike but is that really what you want?
If you go with the former I don't even think it needs replacement reynolds transfers.
Get some photos up soon :D


Last edited by tonyf39 on Mon Sep 05, 2011 11:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 8:40 pm 
Newbie

Joined: Wed Apr 28, 2010 9:53 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Central Scotland
With 5 posts to my name I can now post photos :D . Here they are; one showing it in shiny condition after a strip down and clean; another couple showing the nasty rusty bits on the top tube.

Doesn't look bad from about a couple of meters away, problem is I know where to look to see all the rusty bits :( . Based on comments I think I'll paint some Waxoil over the obvious rust then ride it for the rest of the summer and decice on refurb or not over the winter.

Image
Image
Image

thanks
grant


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 11:26 am 
Old School Grand Master

Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:55 pm
Posts: 8222
Location: New Forest, UK
OOOOO that's nice. A real deal purposeful touring bike.

I see what you mean about the rust. You could just repaint the top tube in a contrasting colour. However, I'd just get it powdercoated or stove enamelled and then line around the lugs with one of those gold pens the girls like to write cards with...

A red metallic stove enamel would show off those black rims nicely. 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 1:58 pm 
Newbie

Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2011 1:30 pm
Posts: 1
Location: Melbourne Australia
Ah ha that is the same as the Butler I bought in Byker Tyne and Wear in August 1990, I think it was 500 quid. Bio Pace chain rings and the suede saddle, my top tube has flaked in different spots though.

I got it to ride through France and with lots of camping and climbing kit onboard soon found out the spokes were made out of chromed spaghetti.

I still have it and up until last week when the chainstay tube sheared it has been a great daily ride. I am getting it fixed and repainted and then I'll put all the old gear back on it. Probably false economy but I am fond of it's gnarled road warrior charms.

Enjoy yours. Maybe we can start a gang.

Cheers CBK


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 11:21 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue May 11, 2010 4:13 pm
Posts: 636
Location: Scarborough
Lovely bike - I do like Dalesmans. A good automotive paint supplier will be able to mix you a custom, colour matched spray can or pot if you wanted to touch up the paint yourself.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 07, 2013 9:11 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2013 8:55 pm
Posts: 7
Hi. Am new to this blog and have just bought a Super Dalesman that appears identical to your photos, so far as I can tell. Would you be able to post a list of your components as I would love to establish whether mine is still origianl spec or not. This would help me decide what to spend money on. I will gladly do the same but will have to wait until it arrives in the post! Cheers.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 10:07 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2013 8:55 pm
Posts: 7
Here's that list of specs for my Super Dalesman (circa 1990 model):

Year my bike spec - 1990 (?)
Brand/Make Claud Butler
Models Super Dalesman
Colour Mediterranean blue pearl
Frames sizes 21.5 inch seat tube
Frame tubing Reynolds 531ST
Fork tubing Reynolds 531ST
Bottom Bracket Sugino
Headset Tange Falcon
Pump Bluemels 4
Bottle cage ?
Rear Carrier Nimrod
Hubs Maillard 500, 36 hole
Spokes stainless
Rims Wolber Super Champion Modele 58, 700c, 36 hole
Tyres Vittoria Randonneur 700 x 25c (originally Worthy Gold Label ?)
Inner tube Schwalbe narrow
Mudguard Esge narrow
Handle bar stem Cinelli
Handle bar Cinelli(?) with "Claud Butler" logo
Handle bar tape black leather
Brake levers Shimano
Brakes Shimano cantilever BR-AT50
Brake blocks Shimano
Seat Post SR Laprade 27.2mm
Saddle Specialized suede
Front gear lever Shimano friction/SIS
Front derailleur Shimano FD-Z202
Rear gear lever Shimano friction/SIS
Rear derailleur Shimano SIS
Chainwheel Stronglight Bio-Strong 48-38-28
170mm cranks
Pedals VP-387 alloy quill road pedals
Toe clip & strap mini clip (originally - Christophe clips and straps ?)
Freewheel Shimano SIS 14-16-18-21-24-28
Chain Shimano 6-8 speed (originally - Sedis Traveller ?)

Only problem is it's too small for me!


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