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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 12:02 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:51 am
Posts: 254
Been reading this:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

I have a dawes super galaxy frame that I'm going to build up, however it has a 126mm OLN on the rear.

Is this recommended as a home project? I don't think I'd mind having a go so long as I don't snap the bloomin stays off! Anyone got experience of doing this on a 531 frame?

I've not yet decided on wheels and drivetrain yet, but I want a triple chainset at least, and I'm guessing that a rear OLN of 135mm would give me the widest options? Also, am I right in that tourers use MTB groupsets rather than road? Any other compatibility issues to think about? Would be quite happy with 7 or 8 speed, so long as the front is a triple, prefer lower gearing to fast.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 12:43 pm 
Old School Grand Master

Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:55 pm
Posts: 8220
Location: New Forest, UK
There's nothing much to worry about, provided you have some mechanical sympathy. The rule really is do a little and recheck (an old 135 hub to check is a big help). The one thing you should aim to avoid is having to bend them back closer having overdone it...

I would agree with a 135 hub, you'll get stronger wheels. If you really want the strongest, pick a 7 speed hub as there is less dish.

The classic touring build is with bar-end shifters, which minimizes compatibility problems with front mechs and offers bombproof reliability.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 12:47 pm 
East Midlands AEC
East Midlands AEC
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Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2006 7:45 pm
Posts: 15067
Location: Derby, UK
I had a steel Dave Yates Diabolo that was 130, and I cold set to 135 no probs.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 3:39 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Thu May 20, 2010 9:03 am
Posts: 1802
Location: Newlyn,Cornwall.
I have sprung many out with no problems.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 7:27 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:51 am
Posts: 254
Thanks for the comments, I might well give it a go. Although I'm going to send it for a respray so if it's a reasonable price might get them to do the cold set aswell (thinking of using Bob Jacksons).

Hamster, I will likely go with the bar end shifter setup. I take your point about the strength issues, although am now thinking it may be worth going for an 8 speed hub to save any upgrade or compatibility problems later on.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 8:17 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:51 am
Posts: 254
Jacksons quote was reasonable, they said 126 to 130mm is fine, but to go to 135mm would need new bridges on the frame ! If that's the case it will have to be 130, from reading around the web it seems that just pulling the frame when fitting the wheel is sufficient rather than a cold set.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 3:14 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Wed Jun 15, 2011 3:19 pm
Posts: 44
I recently had 126mm rear dropouts respaced to 130. The mechanic didn`t want to risk going to 135mm. I watched him do it, he just put the frame in a huge bench vice and pulled on one stay then the other. The important bit was using a frame alignment tool to make sure the dropouts were equidistant from the frame centreline and another tool to make sure the dropouts were parrallel.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 9:27 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:51 am
Posts: 254
On the sheldon brown link in the first post, he shows how to check the spacing is equal with a bit of string and a ruler! I think he mentions that the dropouts going out of line is unlikely on a set like this - not sure of the consequences if they are out of line though, hopefully nothing major.

Right, now to find a stool, a plank of wood and a bit of string.......... :)


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 9:39 am 
Old School Grand Master

Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:55 pm
Posts: 8220
Location: New Forest, UK
Just one thing occurs to me - check if your frame is set up for 27" or 700c wheels. If it's 27", then it would be worth getting the canti braze-ons moved for 700c, and so getting the framebuilder to modify the bridges at the same time is sensible.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 10:04 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:51 am
Posts: 254
Have to admit I haven't yet checked if 27" or 700c :oops: (note to self - check these things before purchase)

It would now be the ideal time to get the studs moved, but the cost is getting too high to be worth while

wish list was:

Bottom bracket repair £30 for a reweld, £110 for a new shell or the cost of a threadless BB
new bridges £60 , move studs guess at least £20
respace £18.50
respray £90
decals , quote advised to allow about £40!
painting the embossed lettering on the seat stays £10
postage £30

as you can see is adding up to way too much to be worthwhile

had a chat my brother last night, he's suggested rather than sending it off just yet just t cut it and wax it as best as possible, diy the decals and diy the respacing. spend the saved money on new wheels instead.

If they are 27" I believe I can get round this by using different brake arms as it has canti studs

once built up, if I really really love it, then maybe go ahead with the repairs and respray option


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