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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 9:21 am 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 4:05 pm
Posts: 279
Location: Kent / SE London
Got a little bit paranoid locking this up in the street, and all my bikes get used regulaly, so got it painted ready for a sale. There are photos of it raw/paint free, as i was running it a few pages back. Good excuse to build up a beater fixed bike too, which might be a bit weight-weenie'ish.
Image Image Image
It's for sale here www.lfgss.com/thread92632.html


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 Post subject: Frame identification.
PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 3:18 pm 
rBoTM Winner
rBoTM Winner
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Joined: Fri Apr 20, 2012 11:03 am
Posts: 221
Location: Tavistock
A couple of post ago, I listed my daughters single speed Raleigh and asked if anybody could help identify the frame. I have been investigating and from the shape of the lugs, Cinelli bottom bracket, campag dropouts and brazed on fittings, she appears to be a Raleigh Record Ace Moderne or a type 8901 frame from the same era, made with Reynolds 653 tubing. The headache is: I have the details from the 1989 catalogue but the frame Serial no is WM8000475, which indicates that frame made in Worksop in Sept 19_8.
Any further help would be appreciated.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 1:21 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2011 2:34 pm
Posts: 378
Location: Leeds
Admittedly not very retro but the Pre-cursa commuter has it's winter wardrobe on now.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 9:58 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Fri Sep 28, 2012 9:43 pm
Posts: 27
Location: Shame
Hi there, I'm new to the site and to restoring my old Raleigh Team Banana.
I had to lose the wheels and rear derailer as they were in not to good shape, but I still have the brakes in good working order and I would ideally just do a good touch up job on the paint as its really not that bad.
So now I am thinking is maybe a fixie project. I would like to ask some maybe stupid questions, but I really have no idea about what to ask for in a store or what to look for online, so please be gentle :)

1, What size wheels would I be looking for (I have thrown the old ones)? I have seen 650,700 etc.
2, What gearing would be ideal?
3, Does anyone know the colours/brands used for the paint job (long shot I know)?


Last edited by Zapster on Sat Sep 29, 2012 12:10 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 9:58 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Fri Sep 28, 2012 9:43 pm
Posts: 27
Location: Shame
Image
My Banana, earlier.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 9:13 am 
Geoff Capes

Joined: Thu Aug 30, 2012 2:41 pm
Posts: 120
There seem to be quite a few of these Bananas appearing on the forum recently! I had one as a teenager in the 90s, of which I had the frame left and donated to a fellow forum member as it's too small for me now.

To answer you questions:
1) Wheels are 700c. A modern budget build could be Mavic Open Sport on On-one track hubs with Sapim double butted spokes. Measure the spacing between the dropouts (where the rear wheel fits) inside to inside. I think it's 126mm. Most fixed / singlespeed hubs are 120mm, but the On-ones come with a pretty long axle that should fit if you use some axle spacers.

2) A good gear to start on is 48:18, which is about 72 gear inches. I found that a bit spinny where I live in Oxfordshire, so I use 48:17.
IIRC, the chainset is a 52/42. An equivalent gear to 48:18 with the 52 chainring would be 52:19 (slightly higher) or 52:20 (slightly lower).
With the 42 chainring would be 42:15 or 42:16.
To work out gears just do front / back * 27. 27 is the nominal diameter of the wheel.

3) No idea, really!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 9:57 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Fri Sep 28, 2012 9:43 pm
Posts: 27
Location: Shame
Thanks for the info, that's plenty to get me off and running!

As I said I dont know too much about bike rebuilding, but I cut my teeth in engineering so I am fine with getting stuck in and learning as I go.

I also know it's a bad idea to just buy something because of the colour, but these puppies look ace to my untrained eyes.

Image

WANHUA PRO Racing Tyre in Yellow Colour
Rim: No Logo 700c 40mm Deep Section Alloy Light Weight Yellow Rim with Double Wall Design for Longer Life
Spoke: 32 Spokes in White Colour
Hub: QUANDO Flip-Flop Sealed Bearing Hub in Red Colour
Free Wheel: 18 Teeth Free Wheel
Fixed Wheel: 18 Teeth Fixed Wheel

Please tell me they are ideal?

Oh and the bike will be used to get me to work and back on a fairly hilly route, but I'm quite fit and currently commute on a hybrid so the fitness aspect is ok. I think I will play around with the gearing so that the uphill is a little harder than I would like (masochist), making the flat sections nice and fast and the downhill manageable (dont want to spin my legs off), So I will start with your recommendation and work from there :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 9:42 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 4:22 pm
Posts: 1482
'Fixies' are really unpopular on this forum, but mainly because of the small minority that grind all the gear hangers off good frames, spray them green and fit them up with pink wheels and riser bars. Yours is not a high end Banana frame because it's only got the one bottle cage mount. My personal opinion is it'll look great with those wheels. Get a black seatpost, black saddle and cut down the drops and flip them like I have with my Bob Jackson. But just be aware that if you want to use brakes, those wheels haven't got a braking surface. If you haven't ridden fixed before (or for very long) you'll just have to trust me that it's not much fun trying to stop with no brakes, especially if you have gearing to make progress on.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 6:00 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Fri Sep 28, 2012 9:43 pm
Posts: 27
Location: Shame
Yes, I agree that damaging high grade frames for fixie projects is bad practice. However, this bike, as you pointed out, is not the top end 531, and as such was not an expensive bike in the first place, so the best thing for it is to become a fixie to get some use from it, until it comes to the point where someone (even myself) might want to restore it back to its original state. This is why I will not be removing lugs and have a box of the original parts that I will store for this reason. I shall also be keeping the original paint job for that retro look.

Ok back to my problems.
The Wheels I posted look to have a braking surface (silver), is this not the case?
The seat post is/was rusty and I am assuming it is standard size?
The Chainset seems to have fake looking bolts on it however it may just be me not looking close enough. If this is the case, is changing the crank a job I would want a seasoned pro to look at or would someone like myself be able to tackle it? (I am competent at spanner wielding).


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 6:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 4:22 pm
Posts: 1482
You're right - those wheels do have a braking surface. The No Logo ones I was eyeing up didn't. Best get 'em bought then :D

There are loads of seatpost sizes. It's probably a 25.4mm since it's a normal Raleigh steel frame, but best to measure it to be sure.

Whereabouts do you mean about the fake bolts? The ones around the chainring or the ones that hold on the cranks? Crank bolts you usually undo the cap with a wide screwdriver, undo the nut or bolt in the middle and then use a crank puller to pull the crank off the taper on the bb axle. The crank puller screws into the inside of the crank where the cap is - looks like this:

Image

Chainring bolts usually need a flat screwdriver or an allen key.


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