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PostPosted: Fri Mar 18, 2011 7:00 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 4:05 pm
Posts: 279
Location: Kent / SE London
Sheldon writes about supporting the underside of the crank with a tube when knocking the pins in, so as not to damage the b/bracket. I just used an old steel seatpost.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 18, 2011 7:43 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 7:07 pm
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Location: Cotswolds
Sheldon created a great resource, but you should remember he was mainly dealing with Americans new to our type of bike, their native crankset is the 2 piece. So he was totally correct, but if you can't support the crank, support the bottom bracket, so that the force of the hammer is not lost in the frame and wheels. I have never seen bottom bracket bearings, cups or axles damaged by careless hammering, only by water which can cause the balls to split. It is better to press the cotters in, or out, if possible, but the whole essence of the bicycle before about 1980 was it's simplicity.

I have responded to a US request on "oldroads" for information on adjusting a raleigh rod brake!


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 12:08 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 4:22 pm
Posts: 1481
Cool, cheers folks. I had done it correctly, but I thought I'd check!

On that particular bike the axle and crank are so worn I actually fitted the cotter pin so that the flat was round the other way to take up the slack. It took some hammering, but my only other option (to be able to keep using the parts) was to weld the crank on the axle, which I didn't really want to do. The angles all look ok and it seems to be holding up so far.


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