What was I thinking?

Yes, I've looked at the VO stems and they do seem like the best out there. I like the idea of the 17 degree one so it ends up horizontal like stems should be!

However, enough people have made encouraging noises about taking it back to the 80s that I will start stripping it down and rebuilding it Old Skool. Hopefully there won't be a respray or anything else expensive needed as I'll have to fund it all from selling off bits.

Mark.

Do have any photos from when you bought it back in 1987?
I'd love to see it!

There are 'photos of me time trialling on it but goodness knows where they have gone. Back then it never occured to me to take a picture of the bike for it's own sake. It was just a bike to be raced not admired. It's only with the glow of nostalgia and a yearning for those "glory days" that I feel the need to retro-grade it.

I've just built up a modern (aluminium framed ) bike for the ride to work that turned out to be a lot faster and lighter than I ever imagined. That means I don't need the Daccordi for weekend duties any more so it can become an occasional bike and be pure Retro instead of the hybrid mess it is now.

Mark.

If the fork is fully chromed (including the crown); why not remove the black paint and have some theads cut on the current fork.
Best leave the steerer a bit longer than strictly necessary and use a small (5mm) spacer between the top nut and upper cup of the new threaded headset; that will give you the option of using a headset with a higher stack size later-on.

The fork was fully chromed until I had the threadless steerer put on. The damage to the chrome was covered up with black paint by the frame builder. I've read that it isn't possible to thread the blank steerer and anyway a standard quill stem didn't fit inside it when I tried as the steerer walls seem to be thicker than on a threaded one.

Mark.

No problem, as long as the steerer wall thickness is OK. Any decent builder should have a 1" cutting die, as well as the usual clearing/cleaning die.

Check that the internal diameter is 22.2mm/ 7/8" (stick a mountainbike bar down the hole, or something...) and find a framebuilder. Otherwise you could find the Cyclus Art.-Nr.: 720001 tool. Probably the best value around, but still around £80.

All the best,

Just been down to Woodrup as they're near to where I work and they can't cut a thread on unthreaded steerers . A shame because I realised the other day that when I tried a quill stem in them the expander bolt was tightened up! I loosened it off and hey presto the stem fitted a treat. Numpty !!

I've stripped the frame down and noticed a few places where the white paint has developed a bit of a yellow tinge. I've tried a clean with de-greaser then car polish but that didn't help. Any suggestions for restoring the colour?

Cheers,
Mark.

That's a bit strange Mark. How does the thread get there on threaded steerers in the first place then? Was it Kevin or Steve you saw at Woodrup's? I've got a fork cutting die in the garage but it will need a bit of attention as it's rather rusty. However, why not speak to Chris Marshall in Keighley. I've just taken the orange Lo-Pro in for a refurb. He may be able to help you.

Chris's phone no. - 01535 691073

How about a bit of T-Cut or mild abrasive polish (Astonish?) on the yellowing paint?

It was Steve I spoke to and he said they'd be able to extend/chase threads but not start them off. I've read steerers come pre-threaded from the tube suppliers so frame builders don't necessarily have the tools to cut threads on blank ones. Even the Park Tools thread cutter only seems suitable for extending or chasing threads. I'll give Chris a ring before I give up on them completely.

I've never used T-Cut for fear of wearing away the paint but if it nothing else works then I'll give it a careful go.

Mark.