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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 4:00 am 
Old School Hero

Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2010 7:54 pm
Posts: 235
Location: Belfast
so presumably yours is worksop (location of old carlton works), second fortnight of march and either 79 or 89. I'd say 89 is more like it from the forks.

stem is prob around 60's.

I'm sure someone will give you a better date.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 8:03 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2010 4:38 pm
Posts: 1466
Location: The Lovely Lincolnshire Wolds and by the sea in Sussex
playford wrote:
1974 - 1980's

In 1974, an entirely different numbering system was introduced for the higher end (531 and subsequently 753) Raleighs. Serial numbers should begin with a "W", which stands for Worksop, the facility that produced theses frames. This is followed by another alphabet. This alphabet indicates the fortnight in which the frame was built (i.e. A = 1st fortnight, B = 2nd, etc.). The third character is always a numeral. It indicates the year of manufacture, the decade being assumed (i.e. "4" could be '74 or '84; it is up to the interpretor to know enough to tell if the frame is from the 70's or 80's). What then follows is a series of numbers. At this point, these appear to be some sort of sequence, but this has not been substantiated.


sheldon.


Playford, you are not entirely correct bro,

W was a frame serial prefix also used by Raleigh at their Nottingham plant for"Lightweight Unit"frames and bicycles, after Raleigh closed the Worksop (Carlton) factory in 1980.

Frame is a bit of a conundrum as it has a mix of"features", e.g early type top tube brake cable route, v.late style Reynolds tubing stickers; and the fork crown...my instinct says late Worksop built Raleigh, but then I look at the headtube badge (which is 80s - my 84 LU Corsa has the same style headbadge - when was it introduced?), over time has this frame acquired a mix of features? I'm pretty confident the tubing stickers are later than the frame.

Is there a riveted on plastic cable guide under the bottom bracket? Thanks to Ned you should know what that is (the"BB"that is).

Raleighs built in 753 had completely different frame numbers.

Mafacs are well underrated brakes...Anquetil won Tours with these (I've just bought some NoS ones). Stem is a GB"spearpoint"available from the early 1950s. Hinduminium is just the name given by Reynolds to their alloy product.

Butted and plain guage tubes - butted tubes (in laymans terms) are thicker at the ends, and thinner in the mid section. Plain guage = one thickness.

Nice to see someone knows how to use a dialguage!

More later - if you want.

Roadking.


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 Post subject: Re: Wheel trueing
PostPosted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 11:01 am 
Retro Guru
User avatar

Joined: Fri Sep 17, 2010 5:34 pm
Posts: 532
Location: Olissipo-PT
Jolyon wrote:

After 5 minutes of spoke nipple tweaking I got the deviation to 13 thou and the wheel spins quietly and freely.

Is 13 thou (0.3mm approx) good enough for a 30 year old wheel ?


Good Job!!!! 8)


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 Post subject: Many thanks everyone...
PostPosted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 5:17 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sat Dec 04, 2010 9:28 pm
Posts: 24
Location: Bath, UK
...for all the info. and encouragement.

And yes there was a plastic cable guide fixed under the bottom bracket.

I am very interested in all bicycle ephemera and mining this fascinating forum for any info. on my particular machine and any parts fitted to it. I'm glad the MAFACs have some promise. I like the look of them - they didn't come with the bike, they were from a Freecycler - it had Weinmanns but work is needed to get them properly aligned.

So, many thanks and please keep the info. coming!

Yours,

Jolly


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 5:28 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2010 4:38 pm
Posts: 1466
Location: The Lovely Lincolnshire Wolds and by the sea in Sussex
Definitely a 1980s frame then.

Although I'm pretty certain the decals are later...I am as yet uncertain of the model of frame/bicycle.

In the photos the brakes have a conventional bolt, but if you took the brake off does it have a recess for allen bolt brake fittings?

Whilst I said the Mafacs were good they're out of period for this frame - Mafacs had disappeared by the late 1970s (I think). It would have had Weinmanns when new - that is if it was sold as a complete bicycle.

Is there any evidence of transfers on the top, down or seat tubes?

Roadking.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 10:06 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sat Dec 04, 2010 9:28 pm
Posts: 24
Location: Bath, UK
Hi again,

Your post raises more tantalizing questions. If the decals are later than the frame; how do I know if they are appropriate at all ? Does the frame number definitely point to it being a 531 tubeset and how can I tell if the tubes are single or double butted without the use of a hacksaw ?

There's more. . .

If the MAFAC Racers are not quite right for the bike what would be the brake to fit that works well ? I have some Raleigh Weinmann centre pull calipers whose drop is too long as well so need work. Would they be "better" although they do not look as nice to me.

There is no recess in the back of the fork yoke to accommodate a wider bolt head.

Yours,

Jolly


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 Post subject: Jolyon from Raodking.
PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 11:28 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2010 4:38 pm
Posts: 1466
Location: The Lovely Lincolnshire Wolds and by the sea in Sussex
Hi.

Establishing provenance can be difficult...there is no guarantee that your frame is 531...seat tube ID (internal diameter) gives us a clue, if the frame is a Raleigh (it probably is) then Raleigh used different types of 531 -

1. 531 throughout, meaning maintubes, stays and forks.
2. 531 maintubes only (seat, down and top tubes)

The frame number doesn't give any clues as to what or if 531 is the tubing used (were it a Raleigh SBDU framset, which this isn't, it would).

If your frame is either of the above (nos, 1 or 2) 531 types it would certainly be butted. Then to complicate things there are a number of types of 531 - this will confuse at this stage so I'll not go into this.

Mafacs are good brakes, I would not be to worried about whether they are"correct"or not, and correctness would only be rlevant once the frame type etc is confirmed. Raleigh would have fitted Weimanns on this frame when it was new...probably one of the side pulls.

Detailed pics of the frame would help...lugs (the frame joints), brake bridges without brakes fitted...etc.

Don't powder coat it.

Roadking.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 4:24 pm 
Old School Hero

Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2010 7:54 pm
Posts: 235
Location: Belfast
thanks for the correction. :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 4:58 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sat Dec 04, 2010 9:28 pm
Posts: 24
Location: Bath, UK
Hi,

The frame's very light and the tubes are seamless so it's at least quite good, I'd guess. The lugs are plain.

What's the issue with powder coating in your view ? I need to do something as the frame's rusty in places.

J.


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 Post subject: From Roadking.
PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 5:25 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2010 4:38 pm
Posts: 1466
Location: The Lovely Lincolnshire Wolds and by the sea in Sussex
Hi,

there are many different types of lugs used on frames - a picture of them may help identify the frame.

I would have the frame refinished to as-new standard, using original type transfers - once the identity is established.

But you're probably looking at £125 ish. If your going to powder coat it I would worry about what the frame is, in my opinion it'll then be irrelevant.

Many enthusiasts (let's say those with more enthusiasm than knowledge) think lightness is the be all and end all. It is not, those in the professional ranks know that fitness for purpose is the mantra (it was G.O'Ds).

Good luck.

Roadking.


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