Well here's how it looks now I've stripped it all down and put it back together again. Still no bar tape but I might get some non-aero brake levers for it so I've left that off for now.
Along the way I discovered the frame is fully chromed but resisted the temptation to strip the paint off.
The freewheel is French made and needs a big (30mm?) remover like a Normandy I'm guessing. It's branded Dilglo which I've never heard of before.
The rear wheel is a Maillard hub with Weinmann eyeletted rim whereas the front is non-branded hub and rim with no eyelets.
The MKS pedals are nice with reasonable quality bearings which I could adjust to run smooth unlike the hubs which are either smooth with a bit of play or rough and tight. Ooh-err missus!
A quick ride was better than expected - even the brakes worked well. It's stiff due to the thick frame tubes I guess but feels heavy. Did I mention the frame + forks + headset weigh 3.5 kg?