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 Post subject: spaying bike frames
PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 5:25 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2010 7:10 pm
Posts: 23
Location: surrey
has anyone had any good results spraying bike frames.do they chip badly,rust .is it worth the effort.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 5:54 pm 
r.B.o.T.M. & P.o.T.M. Winner
r.B.o.T.M. & P.o.T.M. Winner
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Joined: Sun Jul 11, 2010 1:41 pm
Posts: 2449
Location: Plymouth, UK
Mercian and Argos do a top class job.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 8:39 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2010 8:57 pm
Posts: 774
Presuming you mean DIY? Preparation and quality paint is the key - making sure you have somewhere that is dustfree is important too.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 11:07 pm 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Sun May 16, 2010 8:36 pm
Posts: 70
Location: hertfordshire, uk
I painted my bmx, stripped it to bare metal with nitromors, 4 good coats of primer (from an aerosol can) wetsanded, 2-3 coats of topcoat and 3 coats of laquer, it came out fine with no dirt in it, but did get a couple of runs though where it was abit thick. It's pretty tough considering the abuse it gets!!
One thing worth noting is that aerosol laquer takes aaaaaages to fully harden, unless you have a uv lamp, so would give it 2-3 days before handling and fitting it up again

Stu


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 9:12 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2008 2:11 pm
Posts: 303
If you're talking DIY don't bother with aerosols, your control is none existent. You'll always end up with runs and the finish is not particularly consistent. Better to borrow or rent a compressor and gun.

On the subject of clear lacquer it shouldn't take too long to cure, certainly not days. Even so you should only use it on paint that specifically requires it, the specs will tell you. Good quality modern paints simply don't need lacquer to achieve a deep gloss and a lacquer finish is much harder to repair convincingly.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 11:15 am 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 4:22 pm
Posts: 1481
I don't usually get runs with cans, but the paint is nowhere near as tough as what they put on from the factory. If you can spray it in 2K it'll be a much stronger finish.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 9:04 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Mon Nov 20, 2006 10:12 pm
Posts: 4438
Location: Barry
Mercian did a crap job on my Harry Quinn- Was never happy ended up getting it done again by Dave Yates- much better.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 10:03 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 3:38 pm
Posts: 39
I've recently used some Montana spray cans and had a reasonaly good result. The cans are good value from Ebay shops and are harder wearing than the car paint aerosols from the likes of Halfords which I've tried in the past.

The paint is suitable for all surfaces including metal and is available in a good colour range.

Yes powder coat or 2 pack professional spray is better but if you're on a budget an good finish and reasonably durable coat can be acheived. It cost me around £25 for can of plasticoat primer, two cans of colour and a can of lacquer.

As with all painting prep is the key clean surface, primer, top coat - wet and dry with 400 and 600 between etc.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 12:16 pm 
Onnnne Huuuunnnndrreeed and Eigggghhhhty

Joined: Sun May 16, 2010 8:50 pm
Posts: 180
Location: North Yorkshire
Bob Jackson in Leeds did a good job on my Argos and it was less than GBP100 for a plain colour, which I reckon is pretty reasonable.

If you're doing it yourself, then x2 on Montana cans. I've found it's possible to get a very good finish on the cheap this way. As Mattbike says, the key's in the preparation (I used U-Pol primer, then built up the Montana base coats using 600 and 1200 wet and dry between), but another thing I'd add is to leave plenty of time between each coat for it to harden properly - I did some alloys for the Lupo using the same paint and it took well more than a week to harden off (it was winter and they were in the garage, mind). If you can at all move your frame to a warm, dry place between coats this will help!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 12:56 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2008 2:11 pm
Posts: 303
I know it's stating the obvious, but the best advice when spraying is RTFM. Sounds stupid I know, but I've come across an number of bad spray jobs caused by people taking advice from their mates or a bloke they met in the pub. Rather than following the instructions that came with the paint and spraying equipment.

For example if the instructions say the paint should only be touch dry between coats then make it so. If OTOH they say the paint needs to be completely cured and sanded back before the next coat then do that.

If you want your bike to look pretty then you're probably best getting it sprayed professionally. If you want it to be tough then do it yourself with something like smooth hammerite.

Oh and would spaying your bike make dogs less likely to chase you? Sorry. Couldn't resist.


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