Old Dawes Galaxy

Robin: I've never found the tabbed washer design particularly useful.

I’d concur..the tab washer is just an alternative really, for extreme safety conditions a wired locknut would be used so a simple locking nut as used on mine suffices because it’s cheap and easily dismantled..

Sealed needle roller bearings have a lot to offer in terms of surface area and better tolerance, probably overkill for my bike but competition riding and lots of torque through high gears would benefit from them..

Ray

ZG862":2uedayri said:

Above 126mm spacing iirc. I've broken more than one in my time but I was much fitter back then, stood out of the saddle more than I should and did many, many more miles than I do now. I would assume that a solid spindle would be tougher than the quick release tubes that I've ridden since Jagger was a lad (I exaggerate - no-one is that old) but the ability to take the wheels out quickly is more important to me than axle longevity. Agree with you totally about caged bearings. If you know how to fit them loose then why wouldn't you? I think many modern fancy wheels (i.e. above "pub bike" quality) have sealed cartridge needle bearings. I've no idea how they counter thrust but I'm an awful long way from being a bearing designer and I'm sure this is factored in. A good old cup/cone properly adjusted is a good match with my patience and tight-fisted (er, "value-conscious") nature.

Click to expand...

Actually QR axles last better than solid. While the solid is of course stronger, the QR itself keeps the axle in compression. This stops crack propagation in the axle. Solid axles are in tension and therefore have nothing to stop cracks growing. This is made worse in freewheel hubs (as opposed to freehub) as there is a long length of unsupported axle on the drive side. Tandems and heavy tourers commonly broke axles.

Re:

Sorry to perch on your thread,
ZG862 re tabbed washers; I think it's me being dim and being made an ass of by that old 'assume'!
It was just that all the period Campagnolo hubs I have rebuilt have had the slotted axle and tabbed washers. Shows that not every thing old Tullio included was always
correctly necessary.
I did say I wasn't sure, so I'm glad my thoughts have been corrected; One learns something every day.
In my simplistic concept, I reasoned if a cone (admittedly not quite tight enough or had somehow loosened off, Heaven knows how)
abutted an unturnable washer it was more likely to stay put than if it rested against one that 'allowed' it to turn, if given an appropriate impulse.
Moral of the tale - do as you do, and lock the things adequately in the first place = No problem!
Back to Ray's 135mm OLN freewheel axle - do you think this is at risk of bending/breaking with that extra length overhang compared with a 126mm one, so a freehub replacement would be a better choice?
Regards,
Robin.

I agree Robin - if you are going to enjoy all the benefits of stronger rear wheel that 135mm gives, then why not finish it with a more reliable hub? Especially as it's a tourer and going (presumably) to carry weight.

I'm no expert Robin but I don't think Ray is going to have problem with the current spacing - and actually it will probably squeeze down to 126 if he chooses to put that size in/adjust the spacers. I think the issue here is one of pace; Nobody wants to buy an £80 bike and then spend hundreds on it before establishing how and how much it will be used, so I think Ray is right to fix it up to workable state and then figure out what is worth doing when. The block and chain replacement is a no-brainer - and perhaps an opportunity to review the ratios if they are inappropriate. If the rear mech sounds shot (and though I'd put money on Ray being able to replace the bushings and roll pins for pennies), a pair of new jockey wheels is about the same price as a serviceable mech. I didn't really twig that the (replaced) chainset was also Stronglight (as I was advocating considering as a replacement to deal with the worn out rings) so perhaps the next move might be to replace just the inner ring IF it has the same BCD as the 99 so that it could be transferred on to a new crank eventually. I dunno. Wouldn't splash out on a set of wheel right now. I probably over-think this stuff and get overly sentimental about the original bikes and a bit cynical about some of the "style over substance" kit out there.

As I've seen in someone's signature on this site, the main point of a bike is to ride it.

Hi guys...As I’ve been perusing this thread, it’s obvious that it’s become something of a marathon...
For me; the original poster, it’s been and is a really good Source of info..and to make my point, forums rely on input from like minded people...
It doesn’t matter if a comment it technically correct or not....what matters is the conversation..

Reading through the last post...a comment gave me another search string to chase
It was bushings and roll pins!!
That’s simple comment led me to find a video on strip down of the mech I have, to be honest.....I had steered clear of it due to lack of info....
But this means I can get into the gubbins of my rear mech and properly assess its condition...fortunately..I have the ability to anodise small items..(home built kit) this means that I can add a little material to something that’s worn but not too much...about 25 microns, just enough to tighten something in a bearing

There can be confusion about wear and tolerance....though not interchangeable my view is that something can be worn within tolerance or worn outside of tolerance..but even though a component may be out of tolerance...it may well still be serviceable within reason, that’s my hope for the rear mech...
I’ve ordered a new rear spindle and new bearings...a new freewheel will be ordered when I get the tool to remove my own...and a journey down to the local bike shop today confirmed that the rims are in good nick...so..at the moment the spend is a whopping £ 15.00...I’m pleased with that...

I have sourced the replacement inner ring but that can wait ..I know they are available..

Thanks again guys for one very long but interesting thread..

Ray

Please can you give a run-down on your anodising kit? I've always assumed that this was out of reach of the hobbyist so I'm intrigued. Can you do colour?

Maybe this subject needs its own thread?

http://www.uponone.com/howtos/1.pdf

Ok, see photos..and a link to Ron Newman re: Moo lite focusers...

In the pics you see the containers and in there is sulphuric acid aka..battery acid. Diluted to (can’t remember of hand) see link..
Also are the lead anodes..big is better, your piece being the cathode..

One old charger, not a smart one...no good for this...

The dye...order on line..
Purified water...de-ionised...lots of it...Tesco etc..
Cleanliness is paramount ..

Rubber gloves and eye protection..imperative!!

Hope that helps..please ask if more info needed

Ray

Well that's certainly got my attention - thanks Ray! I followed the suggestion in the pdf to https://www.caswelleurope.co.uk/ where there are all sorts of interesting supplies.
I have a whole bunch of parts from the car "restoration" project in my garage that I gleefully wire wheeled all the original zinc chromate off ( :facepalm: ) that could be protected from the rusty future I've thereby condemned them to, as well as all sorts of alloy bike bits that are crying out to become anodising experiments. Think I'm going to have to plant at least one more money tree...

Think I'm going to have to plant at least one more money tree...

Don’t plant one for the anodising kit..old batteries are your friend just drain the acid filter and use....old roofing lead is fine....aluminium doesn’t work as well as an anode!

Old charger..if you have one...smart chargers ramp up and down, that’s no good content charge is great..
Old plastic container...sized for your project and acid capacity...it’s really easy to do and safe in cautious hands..

Glad I can give something back....but it will need a new thread from here in I guess..

Ray