aluminium frame repair

As above, gently persuade it back to its original shape, fit a couple of reinforcement shims as necessary and you're off
 
Given that it's 6061-T6 alloy (not 7005/7020), a fully correct repair would require major solution and ageing heat cycles to get the material back to full strength, so pretty expensive process (several hundred £s...).

However, the front mech hanger is not a majorly stressed or structural joint, with the added benefit of a fairly thick butt above the BB to mount it to.
Using a non-heat treatable but higher strength filler, such as 5183 (rather than the normal 4043), would give a decent strength for a welded, but non-treated repair here.
Alternatively, a new hanger could be aluminium soldered/brazed on, with the correct filler and procedure. It's not too common, usually rejected in favour of faster and cheaper welding, but gives a good join with far less heat and stress raisers than welding.

It's not a repair that I have done before, (mostly headtubes and dropouts), but I do have a stock of 6061 hangers designed for welding (or solder/brazing), and also cast stainless and aluminium hangers designed for riveting on.

All the best,
 
Re:

Having asked a few frame repair guys about best options, the preferred route seems to be to cut the old one off and make good and then use a riveted-on mount. I figured welding would be very expensive and require re-heat treatment and paint, so the riveted option seems the most pragmatic. It'll have to wait for the lock down to finish first though

thanks for the replies
 
Band on mech would be my preferred choice drilling and rivetting can lead to localised crack in initiation.
 
Re: Re:

jetstream":3kgilm3m said:
It’s not a round tube so band-on wouldn’t fit
Knew I should of read the earlier posts doh!
The part were the weld is located, us already compromised from microstructure issues, sp maybe consider a custom mount bonded on.
 
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