Re-centering a Mavic Ksyrium Elite rear wheel

garethrl

Senior Retro Guru
Hi folks,
I have a pair of older Mavic Ksyrium Elite wheels that have been lying around since I bought them with a frame over three years (they're a fair bit older than that though). I decided to use them to build my GF's bike, and noticed that the rear rim was noticeably off-centre towards the drive-side. I checked it on the wheel stand, flipping it through 180 degrees and indeed it's off-centre by a good few mm - enough to be problematic if running wide tyres on a reasonably close clearance frame. I'll post some photos later after I get home and get the wheel back on the jig.

Does anyone know if there's a simlpel way of re-centreing a Ksyrium, using spacers for example? Or will it require re-dishing? It must have been like this since I got it, and I only just noticed! :roll:

Cheers,
Gareth.
 
Check all the bits of the hubs are there and in the right order (is it still 130mm OLN?) if they are, unfortunately you'll need to redish.

Which spokes/nipple is it? If it's one of the steel/brass versions, it *should* be fairly easy.

If its the aluminium spoked/nippled version, you may be fooked. They seize really easily, and fall apart if you try to true them.

I have some of the first SLII wheels, and if i buckle them, i'm screwed!
 
Re:

Re-bumping my thread now that I've finally taken a few photos ...

The first couple show the extent of the offset, with the wheel just flipped around in the jig. It's about 5mm total, so needs to be shifted away from the drive side by about 2.5mm.

The spokes are steel and it looks like the nipples are alu - a magnet just about sticks on but I think that's probably due to the end of the spoke. I tried turning one of the nipples to test if it was seized and it turned quite easily. So re-dishing should be an option.

I've also added a pic of the rim decals in case anyone can identify the model. If there's a way to shunt the whole wheel over then that would be great. If not then I'll re-dish it.

Cheers,
Gareth.
 

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Re:

I have some of these too. I guess a simple re-dish using a spoke key.

I run mine without rim tapes though - you seem to have a blue rim tape ??
 
I'd guess some are drilled straight through (the only elites i've played with are, but they are 10-12 years old, at least.) Others (later ones) might not need to be. Saying that, the Fore inserts suggest this isn't drilled through, so maybe the tape is just there to stop things dragging round the rim?

Anyway these are using the Mavic Fore inserts, so should just be a matter of redishing with a normal spoke key, as it looks like 2mm bladed steel spokes. Just be careful of max spoke tension in case the insert pulls through, or the nipple binding up on the insert and unscrewing it!
Think they also have a nyloc feature. (think the nipple is called an ABS Nipple, but not sure)
 
Re:

also I have a plastic tool to hold the spoke which makes sure it doesn't twist as you work the spoke key so that the bladed spokes don't end up facing the wrong way, but you don't need this tool, just something slotted will do.
 
I just pushed a few sections of the rim tape to one side and the rim bed isn't drilled all the way though. So it's strange that the tape is there.

The wheels are as they were when I received them - I guess the previous owner put the blue cloth rim tape there. Old habits die hard I guess!

Thanks for all the input - I'll have a go at re-dishing over the weekend if I have time.

Cheers,
Gareth.
 
Re:

Quick dumb question before I get started - is there anything particular I should bear in mind considering the wheel only has 20 spokes?

With traditional wheels it's normally a case of working round the wheel alternately loosening and tightening each by a quarter- or half-turn, according to which way you want to move the rim.

Do I do the same with this wheel, or is there a somehow different method since there are fewer spokes?

Cheers,
Gareth.
 
Same method. Just make sure that is the nipples turning on the inserts and not the inserts turning in the rim!
 
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