What's this holdsworth?

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Bb shell is 68mm
And the rear end spacing is perhaps 'split the difference' 123mmm or thereabouts?
Yeah that chainring bolt clearance.. well.. keep an eye on that- you don't want to inadvertently saw through the chainstay.
Looks like 531 throughout- stays and all. It also looks like track stack-height. Cannot be sure from a pic until the wheels go in, but it also looks like track clearances, and mudguards will be a squeeze, despite the mudguard eyes.
Your ebay link proves it is not a one-off. A shot in the dark- maybe a velodrome somewhere once ordered a batch of these from Holdsworthy?
 
Thanks for the info. Will be trying wheels very soon when I get time.
Hoping to fit gaurds and 28mm tires so let's see how it goes clearance wise, was hoping for a wet weather bike.
 
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Ok so photos with clearance
Tires are 25mm

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Looks like 28mm tires and Chromoplastics will fit so that's good.
However standover height just fits so a little worried about fit. My other 58cm frames don't seem so large.
 
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That is 'round about what I was anticipating, clearance-wise. Even with 25mm tyres that is a squeeze for guards, in my book anyway. That frame probably has a bottom bracket height of eleven inches too, which would explain the standover issue.
 
Ah I see.
And yes I anticipate a lot of fettling with the guards, but chromoplastics are nice and thin so I might be ok.
Just need five minutes to throw a chain on then I'll go out and see if it fits me ok.
Ordered some velox tape for the bars and will throw on a front brake for emergency stopping power, but keeping the ratio low anyway. I'll post progress pics once it's built.
 
Ok, so after mulling over how close the spider is to the chainstay, as well as the rear spacing being over 120 mm, did older track hubs have a wider chainline? I can't imagine I'd be able to fit a much larger chainring and still keep a 42mm chainline. Surely I should be able to run a proper track ratio without using a silly small sprocket?!
 
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The best way to sort that out imo is to swap out either the BB axle or the cranks to give yourself those extra few mm that will make the crank/spider/chainring/chainstay clearance acceptable.

Once you've done that, measure the chainline and duplicate it at the rear hub with axle spacers. Then you will likely have to pull the rim back to centre by adjusting the spokes- i.e. re-dish the wheel.

I don't know if standard 'track' chainline is different now to what it was 40 years back? I suspect you will not achieve a 'track' chainline with a 68mm bracket shell.
 
Hmm. There is always spacers, that's true. For what it's worth, I'm used to modern track bikes with 103/106 mm bb axel lengths, and I always aim for a 42mm chainline. I'm running a 106 in this bike with my go-to affordable crankset, a converted shimano 600 road with inner tabs ground off. Chainline is 42mm spot on and running is silent.
I suppose I could even gain the advantage of a stronger rear wheel if I'm centering it so there's no dish (on a single sided track hub)
The reason for mulling so much is that eventually I'd like to run a period correct crankset, with a larger chainring, and I'm a measure ten times, fit once kind of guy (yeah I know with bikes this is nearly impossible)
 
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