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PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 1:16 pm 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider
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Joined: Wed Apr 15, 2009 1:08 pm
Posts: 3117
Location: Woking
Well, I've got stuck BBs out before now I'm stuffed as the end of BB complete with all the splines has sheared off! :x

I have a cartridge BB fitted, presumably I need to grind the end of the non-drive side off to allow the axle to be removed then cut the rest out with a hacksaw?

I used heat on this frame too.... poo.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 9:30 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 10:00 pm
Posts: 523
Location: Ely. UK
Made my own tool for holding the BB in place.
The thread in the BB axle is M8 x 1mm. The other end has a normal M8 thread for a normal nut. A couple of large penny washers hold the tool in place


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 9:53 am 
Old School Hero

Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2013 11:07 am
Posts: 165
Has anyone tried an impact wrench on a stuck BB? I used to have an electric one and now own a pneumatic one. Tons and tons of nicely adjustable torque and it uses dozens of tiny impacts a second to really get stuff moving.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 12:42 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Tue Jan 03, 2012 7:52 pm
Posts: 1387
Location: the Netherlands
Yes, impact wrenches are perfect for the job. I had a stuck BB in a steel Marin frame, wouldn't move even with the biggest handle I could find. Then I brought the frame to my father's garage, that stocks a full set of racing car tools, including an electric and a pneumatic impact wrench for removing wheel bolts quickly. The electric impact wrench, with the size and weight of a simple electric screwdriver, got the BB removed in 2 seconds....

Not even necessary to try the pneumatic one.

They're perfect for the job!


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 09, 2013 6:57 am 
Gold Trader
Gold Trader
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Joined: Fri Mar 24, 2006 6:49 pm
Posts: 3214
Location: Bracknell,East Berkshire.
This tool's been invaluable to me over the years. Works for getting old style cup n cone cups out every time. Usually, one cup will move, most often the adjustable cup will come out leaving the fixed cup stuck. Remove all bearing, slide this tool through and tighten the two halves together until they bind ~ then crank it to the max. Simple, built like a battleship on steroids and never fails. Can also be reversed if you have a stuck adjustable cup and works with cartridge types if you've managed to remove the cartridge body.

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 04, 2013 8:22 am 
King of the Skip Monkeys
King of the Skip Monkeys
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Joined: Wed Nov 07, 2007 4:34 pm
Posts: 26181
Location: Moomin Valley
the thread that keeps on giving.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 05, 2013 2:01 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Sun Nov 23, 2008 10:44 pm
Posts: 3267
Location: Rushden......ish
Wish it would give to me at the moment :evil:


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 10:25 am 
King of the Skip Monkeys
King of the Skip Monkeys
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Joined: Wed Nov 07, 2007 4:34 pm
Posts: 26181
Location: Moomin Valley
buuuump.....


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2014 10:48 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 11:09 am
Posts: 9399
Location: Devon
Posted this in my build thread but buzzing with excitement. Needed a blow torch but no paint damage if low heat.
One bottom bracket tool, crank bolt and makeshift washer to hold it in place.
Image

Add spanner and six foot scaffold poleImage

That's your leverage sorted.

No movement with two people trying. After two weeks of soakingh in penetrating oil three times a day. Out comes Mr blow torch. Five minutes heating bottom bracket shell.
Image

Clean threads but a whole heap of mud etc
Image

Probably hardest thing I've done on a bike!


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2014 6:43 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sun Dec 15, 2013 12:14 am
Posts: 99
REKIBorter wrote:
Do I need a longer lever. Hope Ti BB not seen the light of day for 15 years. Come on you beauty.


Not the way to do it unless you want to snap your frame and or your stand.

The frame should be clamped as close as possible to the bottom bracket with a second person to support the frame and stop it rotating.
Ideally the frame should be fixed to something immovable, I've used the front bumper on a landrover in the past.

The way that frame is clamped a high leverage is potentially applied to the seat post which could cause it to snap and/or possibly the seat tube to bend or snap.


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