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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 12:11 am 
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Joined: Sat Sep 09, 2006 6:00 am
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
I'm off work ATM after an operation so I have some time on my hands. This thread has spurred me back into wheel-building action. I'm going to build a pair of M900's with CR18 rims via the snowflake method, take pics along the way and write up a blow-by-blow. Should I start a new thread of just tack onto this one?

Just have to get down to the LBS & pick up some DT Competitions...


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 1:06 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2008 1:38 pm
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Location: OZ
Great way to wreck a rim :-(

If you break a spoke the corresponding detensioning of the paired "snowflake" spoke will be enough to give you a nice flat spot in your rim should you have hit something at the same time...................

Andy (building wheels since 1988)


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 6:44 am 
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fatfixie wrote:
If you break a spoke the corresponding detensioning of the paired "snowflake" spoke will be enough to give you a nice flat spot in your rim should you have hit something at the same time...................

Andy (building wheels since 1988)


Have you experienced this yourself? I've found in my experience that your comment is not true (pardon the expression).

1) I've found that if a snowflake spoke breaks, yes it does put the wheel further out of tension than if a spoke on a regular 3-cross wheel had broken but you must remember that even on a conventionally spoked, 3-cross wheel that the spokes that cross still do tension 'each other' so if one breaks it stil affects 2 spokes.

2) I've found that if you use good quality, stainless, double-butted spokes and follow the correct lacing process, snowflakes dont' break spokes.

3) I've found that snowflakes are more resistant to snapping spokes in the event of a stick enterng the wheel from the side while rotating. The 'buddy system' strengthens the wheel in these type of impacts

4) I'm not trying to promote snowflakes as the 'way of the future'. They're quirky and tricky to build but they're fun and they look cool! Glass half full, Man! Not glass half empty!

If anyone's interested, I have just written up a step-by-step snowflake wheel building instruction with images here => http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=94277. Sorry, it's a bit 'wordy'.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 6:49 am 
Gold Trader
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Yes :-)

thought to be fair i haven't built one since about 1997......

Andy

p.s- posted my chainrings yet ? :-)


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 6:59 am 
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fatfixie wrote:
Yes :-)

thought to be fair i haven't built one since about 1997......

Andy

p.s- posted my chainrings yet ? :-)


Well, i'm 1 up on you then. I just built one this afternoon! :lol:

Yes, I posted your chainrings off yesterday. You're lucky I forgot about them. If i'd remembered i'd have cancelled the auction! $1.24 for 2 mint 600 chainrings... :evil:


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 7:05 am 
Gold Trader
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Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2008 1:38 pm
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Don't worry- i've paid too much for enough stuff on ebay that i'm due a good buy :-)

Wait till your Kirk goes "wobbly", and put a loosely built set of snowflakers on that for the ultimate motion sickness experience :-)

Andy (once built a loose off- centre snowflaker for a clown unicycle :-) )

p.s- fancy picking up a bike for me in Melb? !!!!!


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 10:18 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 25, 2007 8:37 am
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Location: Whiskey bent & hellbound!
Was proven to be a crap way to build wheels. I remember the George French article in Ride years back which talked about the engineeing reasons why it didn't work.

Might be okay on a lightly used MTB though, I think we were talking about strength in terms of casing a double or hanging up on a spine lol


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