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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 11:18 am 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2005 11:33 am
Posts: 84
Location: W.London
no, they are little plastic like bridges, you can see in the picture, they have two little wedge things that open up when pushed into the frame, a bit like wall plugs.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 12:07 pm 
B.o.T.Y. Winner / Gold Trader
B.o.T.Y. Winner / Gold Trader
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Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2005 11:00 am
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Location: York
Didn't the early cannondales use the same things ? maybe cannondale could help .

yup thought so
:arrow:

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=10701&g2_serialNumber=2&g2_GALLERYSID=a33fd78877f896345814d29ae32e7d08


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 12:27 pm 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2005 11:33 am
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Location: W.London
well noticed........but like you say...the "early" cannondales.....have to give them a bell, and see what they say.
thanks retro'.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 1:50 pm 
B.o.T.Y. Winner / Gold Trader
B.o.T.Y. Winner / Gold Trader
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No problem :wink:

Image

part # A113

:arrow: http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/tech/kitlist.html page 1.3.2

suprising how much useful stuff is on here.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 1:50 pm 
Retro Guru
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i would V the break out then run the bead so you can get full penetration in the joint ok you would have to ream it out


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 3:23 pm 
Retro Guru
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Location: manchester
those cable guides are available from Pace, £17.33 for three :shock: :shock: :shock:


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 3:38 pm 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2005 11:33 am
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why thank you burkeredh, giving them a ring,
thanks for ALL the effort retro'
and THWANG-666, that's what the welder said he was going to do.......should have asked you :wink:


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 10:10 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 9:26 am
Posts: 1
Location: Melbourne/Australia
THWANG-666 wrote:
i would V the break out then run the bead so you can get full penetration in the joint ok you would have to ream it out


Hi guys, seeing someone mentioned us by name in an earlier post (www.gripsport. com.au) I thought I might stick my head up and voice an opinion. Hope no one minds.

Under normal circumstances thwang's advice would be spot on, but in this case I'd suggest NOT "Vee"ing out the crack and NOT trying for a full penetration weld.

The weld at the crack itself should really only be to position the broken tube and cosmetically hold the area together. A full penetration weld would not only be a waste there (and require machining/reaming of the seat tube) but would actually create a greater heat affected zone (and hence weakness) than a quick and "cooler" weld. The actual strength of a repair like this needs to come from well designed gussets either on both sides OR wrapped around the back.

Here's a couple of photos to show what I'm on about. Two of them are actually headtube repairs (or more accurately where the headtube was about to rip off the frame), but they'll give the idea. The actual repair to all the crack shown are (by design) little more than cosmetic... the strength comes from the gusseting.

Good luck with the repair.

Cheers


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Full headtube wrap.jpg
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 4:20 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 2:43 pm
Posts: 67
have you actually had this done yet?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 7:41 pm 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2005 11:33 am
Posts: 84
Location: W.London
yeah mikedesign, it was done by a local guy i know. not a bad job, will post some pics after i spray it back up.


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