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Is my build retro enough?
Yes. Were nearly in 2010 ffs! 10%  10%  [ 5 ]
Yes. Were nearly in 2010 ffs! 10%  10%  [ 5 ]
Yes. Were nearly in 2010 ffs! 10%  10%  [ 5 ]
Yes. Were nearly in 2010 ffs! 10%  10%  [ 5 ]
Well its kinda retro modernised... 13%  13%  [ 7 ]
NO 12%  12%  [ 6 ]
Its somewhere in between mate but still very cool ;) 37%  37%  [ 19 ]
Total votes : 52
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 12:20 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 11, 2008 4:36 pm
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Location: West Sussex.
Nokon gear cable

Anyone got the instructions for this and wouldnt mind scanning it and PM'ing my way please?

Got some new second-hand (without instructions) to use on the Cindercone build. I can probably figure it out but wouldn't mind seeing the instructions.

Cheers.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 9:23 am 
retrobike rider
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Location: Yorkshire, England
5 second on a search engine :p
http://www.nokonusa.com/images/drlrmbinst.pdf

http://www.nokonusa.com/NokonUSA_Home.htm

I have no idea what they are or if that is what you are on about. But the name is correct ;)


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 12:41 pm 
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Cheers for that. Believe me I did search on google but probably didn't enter the right thing in the search engine. Thanks again.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 5:52 pm 
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Hey Mike! yea will be watching this thread. Need idea,s for my cinder cone. Just wondering about the SID,s what weight are they? and how do they do against modern forks?

dave 8)


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 6:39 pm 
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bigdavevw wrote:
Hey Mike! yea will be watching this thread. Need idea,s for my cinder cone. Just wondering about the SID,s what weight are they? and how do they do against modern forks?

dave 8)


Nice one Dave. I'm really exited about this bike.

The SID's are among the lightest sus forks ever made, and highly tuneable. '98 SID's (the first ones) have 63mm travel while the ones after that have adjustable travel between 63mm and 80mm. They aint the stiffest in the world though so probably not good for heavy riders. Going by your avatar you don't look like a massive bloke so you should be OK. If your going for older SID's try to find a pair that have been recently serviced. Otherwise be aware that if abused and not looked after a SID can end up with damaged inside walls where the air piston slides. If this inside wall is scratched the fork wont hold air pressure. TF tuned do a seal kit though and its no that difficult to strip them down and clean everthing up then fit new seals. Pre year 2000 SID's seem to go pretty cheap but you could end up paying a fair bit for a service to get them running like new again, unless your pretty good with the tool kit and can do it yourself. If you want to run disks you will need a >1999 version. The '98's didnt have disk mount. I've got '98 SID's but I'm getting some NOS '99 lowers for them. You can upgrade the stanchion seals with the latest Rockshox seals too. Probably a good idea with UK conditions.

Against modern forks I would expect them to hold their own if well looked after and set up properly - negative spring pressure is critical to overcome the inherent friction in air sprung forks. Maybe not as stiff as something like a Marzocchi or a FOX though. If your into anything heavier than XC id stay away from SID's. I like to occasionaly get airbourne (who dosent) but nothing hardcore. I just like fast fun technical XC riding. I reckon SID's are OK for this if set up plush. Look at what they were designed for, hard charging XC racing. They must be fairly tough to withstand that. Just my opinions though, others may think different.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 7:49 pm 
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Awesome!! good reply there :D I,d buy them just for the lovely blue colour :lol: 8)


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 8:06 pm 
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bigdavevw wrote:
Awesome!! good reply there :D I,d buy them just for the lovely blue colour :lol: 8)


Check these out then!

2002 SID Race Ti

Image

2002 SID World Cup Ti

Image

Both had a deeper shiner shade of blue and Ti Nitride coated stanchions. Sexy . 8)

I could have had a mint '02 Race Ti (eBay) for this build but I ran out of dosh and mised out :cry: They sold for £102 with only one bidder but I had just ran out of cash at the time the auction ended :cry: :cry:


:lol: :lol: :lol:


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 8:24 pm 
retrobike rider
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Headset looks like it uses a 45degree bearing so most crown races for that type of headset will fit ; as its an angled surface it can be a split crown race , easily fitted with your fingers .

Useless info - as internal headsets are so generic now , bmx forks are made with a machined surface so no crown race is needed , forks just slide in straight against the angled bearing ; one less part to break or lose .


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 8:41 pm 
Anglian Deputy AEC
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Loose the riser bars, you don't need them with that length of stem. Hot rods are cool as long as you don't try to hid the fact it is a hot rod.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 8:54 pm 
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REKIBorter wrote:
Loose the riser bars, you don't need them with that length of stem. Hot rods are cool as long as you don't try to hid the fact it is a hot rod.


err? what? hide the fact its a hotrod? a? where's the engine then?

:lol: :lol:

1, I like risers, they're cool. Especially the Easton carbon ones.

2, I don't have enough steerer length for spacers so I need the extra height of a riser bar.

3, I prefer the riding position and bar angle. Its more comfy and gives better control

I used to ride a very low front end BITD and thought at the time risers came out that they would be crap for climbing. So I tried one and discovered I had more control in the descents and technical sections and after I got used to it I found no problems with climbing whtsoever. Ive not used bar ends, and had a riser bar ever since. I'm not one for head down arse up even on an XC or commuter bike. I prefer a more comfortable ridng position with my saddle a tad lower than the 'norm' (leg extended) and a nice comfy front end. BITD we set up our riding position like a roadie would. I'm past that. Its just what I'm comfortable with. Now where's my riser bar....


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