bike weights

lewis1641

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has anyone guessed the weight of their bike (re even better, know what their bike was supposed to weigh) then actually weighed it?

my khs montana pro was supposed to be a 24lb race machine according to khs in 1993. i admit i have added suspension forks but the other components are pretty light, and its only running 1 gear. its weight...24lbs measured on 2 scales.

my on one inbred has been built for strength but with weight in mind also. picking it up it feels light. i'd guess at 24lbs light. weighs 26!

back in the day i considered sub 25lbs to be light but i bet this montana ss is the first bike i have had thats weighed that.

i daren't let my fire mountains even look at the scales, let alone go on them.

did the manufactureres lie or is it that i'm rubbish at estimating weight
 
Of course they lied, or bent the facts. Weights are taken on unfinished frames with no pedals and in the smallest size, typically. Maybe.
 
My rocky weighed ~ 23.5lb when I had it's best stuff on, since it's running modern stuff as opposed to m900 and I've swapped the '94 mags for '95 judy xc with (wing springs) in it at 24lb (+- 0.5lb) on my Wii.
BUT it feels much heavier. I put this down to the shift of weight to the front of the frame (Judys) and this is only going to get worse when I put a lighter rear hub in :(
I can see the MAG's going back on if it start to effect the balance.

So I see distribution of weight as more important for normal riding and trails around the countryside. Though uphill I don't care where it is as long as it's not there :LOL:


Also Tyres as where you'll gain weight without noticing.
 
Trade description law means that they had to be accurate, but selecting the smallest frame is a common trick.
 
My Merlin Mountain with modern'ish XTR and Sids comes in at just over 22lbs

The M5 S-Works also came to about the same, but the M2 with XT was a couple or three pounds heavier
 
So I see distribution of weight as more important for normal riding and trails around the countryside.

+1 i like to keep the weight low down . with a heavy seat and post out of the seat riding you really notice it . i also make an effort to keep the front heavier than the rear . when you hop a bike its a lot easier to lift the front with your upper body than it is to lift the rear with your legs

im trying to keep the new bike light . well as light as a sane person can . im not going to spend a fortune to save a gram :LOL:

i lack a proper method of weighing a complete bike accurately but im going to weigh each individual part and come to a near enough estimation . got my seat to 120g :LOL:

does anyone know the claimed weight of a 94 cinder cone new ??

i might see if i can get some scales cheap . itl be interesting to know how all the bikes compare to each other
 
hamster":3dh7amjp said:
Trade description law means that they had to be accurate, but selecting the smallest frame is a common trick.
You would think so, I agree, but I don't think it can be the case.

A stock 1997 Kilauea was claimed to weigh 22.7lbs with P2s, but my size 17 weighed 24.7. The claimed frame weight was 3.9, but mine weighs 4.2 (still very light, but not 3.9). The frame weight claim explicitly says for a size 18 (which would weigh 4.3).

It could be that the frame weight is a frame builder's weight, without paint, but the complete bike weight claim is just a lie. Even if you took the smallest size with no pedals, you don't get down anywhere near the claimed weight.

The lightest I ever had the bike was 22.0, 0.7 less than the claim and 2.7 less than stock. The savings were mainly in the wheels (I still don't quite understand how come the stock wheels were so heavy), the tyres, the seat post and the saddle.
 
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