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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 4:30 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Fri Mar 21, 2008 1:58 pm
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Location: Liverpool
GUYS, HOW THE BLOODY HELL DO YOU REMOVE COTTER PINS? PICKED UP A 1970s MK2 RALEIGH CHOPPER AND ITS OBVIOUSLY A BIT BATTERED BUT THE FRAME IS SOLID. IN THE MIDDLE OF STRIPPING IT DOWN BUT CAN'T GET THESE THINGS OUT. ANY ADVICE PLEASE? :x


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 4:50 pm 
retrobike rider
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I'd say soak them in penetrating oil for 24 hours, then warm the crank up with a bit of heat i.e propane torch and hit them smartly with a flat-face punch and a big hammer. You'll need to hit the threaded end...... :wink:

SP


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 4:52 pm 
MacRetro rider
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Experts say use a cotter press which is a workshop tool not used enough to warrant purchase.

I remove the bolts and then repeatedly tap the threaded end of the pin with a small hammer until eventually they fall out. Do not welly with a big hammer as this can deform the pin and you'll never get it out. Also make sure to hit the pin square on as again you do not want to deform the pin. Small hammer, repeated taps, dont bash. Beyond that I have no suggestions but its worked for me several times.

Good luck, Velo


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 5:00 pm 
retrobike rider
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Ah, by big hammer I meant that hitting something once and hard generally shifts it! I have made half-arsed attempts at 'tapping' cotter pins out and they do deform really easily.

As my father would say "brute force applied scientifically"! :D He's in the process of building an aeroplane which is slightly worring with a motto like that tho'.....

SP


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 5:05 pm 
Retro Guru

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cheers guys, I'll give it a go!! :D


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 5:56 pm 
Old School Hero
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If you fancy leaving the threads intact, I find the easiest way is to leave the bolt on, undone to flush with the end of the thread, obviously the pin won't fall out, which, if you're working near a fridge can be a good thing, but it'll be loose so when you take the bolt off, the pin falls neatly and professionally into your greasy palm!

Personally, I've always gone for the one big hit method of 'percussive maintenance'...


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 7:02 pm 
aka Leo Swayer
aka Leo Swayer
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/\ what he said. Undo the nut until its past flush with the end of the pin, then(as me old nan used to say) 'sledge the sh*t out of it' :D


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 7:03 pm 
retrobike rider
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Ah, clever! Undoing the nut until it is flush with the top of the cotter pin is a good idea. More contact area and less likely to deform the pin, I'll remember that tip.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 7:41 pm 
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cotter pins are a consumable, not meant to be used twice. they are made from a very soft steel and deform during fitting, and the threaded section doesnt last very long if you do them up too tight. they cost about £1 each so just smack it out with a drift and a hammer.

the secret is to fit them properly, if fitted properly you can ride the bike indefinately without the nut and washer fitted. the nut is just a safety device.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 9:21 pm 
Gold Trader / MacRetro rider
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I do these at least once a week on the bike project im working at[bums on saddles]
Undo the nut then knock it through by hitting it with a hammer [on the threaded end]
It should easily come out,if it doesnt ,hit it again :lol: harder.
If the cranks were tight before you took it off,then you can use the same pin to put them back on with,although they are easy to get and cheap to replace


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