V Brake Set-Up Help

MarcusD · May 26, 2009

I have everything I need at last (Well I think so

)

But my question relates to part number 9 on the diagram below (Inner Cable Lead Unit):-

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 609081.pdf

Are both the end pieces meant to come of? As on one of them both end bits come of so I am thinking it's broke

Also I have different length number 9's is the shorter for the front or rear?

perry · May 26, 2009

more commonly known as a noodle

its also common for them to be made a bit crap so yep the ends dont always fit precisely , its not a problem though

i just use whichever angle gives the best cable route . its normally the sharper angle at the rear as the cable needs to run along the toptube shortly after attaching to the arm and the front is the 90 as it can travel in more of an arc to the lever

plenty of lube in the outer
route the inner through
remove tension in the v arms ( often there is a spring that can be pushed out of the way
adjust pads nice and easily as the arm isnt pulling away from the rim , dont forget a touch of toe in
tighten cable bolt loosely ( so you can still pull it through
hold lever at the point where you want the brake to clamp the rim , while the pads are on the rim . tighten bolt
put tension springs back in place
play with lever a bit , if your happy carry on , if not loosen bolt and repeat
set arm ballance
check toe in ( screachhhh )
cut inner cable long enough to tuck nicely behind the arm
use cable end /super glue / solder
bing
bang
bosh
jobs
a
good
un

MarcusD · May 26, 2009

perry":239brbvi said:
more commonly known as a noodle

its also common for them to be made a bit crap so yep the ends dont always fit precisely , its not a problem though

i just use whichever angle gives the best cable route . its normally the sharper angle at the rear as the cable needs to run along the toptube shortly after attaching to the arm and the front is the 90 as it can travel in more of an arc to the lever

plenty of lube in the outer
route the inner through
remove tension in the v arms ( often there is a spring that can be pushed out of the way
adjust pads nice and easily as the arm isnt pulling away from the rim , dont forget a touch of toe in
tighten cable bolt loosely ( so you can still pull it through
hold lever at the point where you want the brake to clamp the rim , while the pads are on the rim . tighten bolt
put tension springs back in place
play with lever a bit , if your happy carry on , if not loosen bolt and repeat
set arm ballance
check toe in ( screachhhh )
cut inner cable long enough to tuck nicely behind the arm
use cable end /super glue / solder
bing
bang
bosh
jobs
a
good
un

You Sir are a legend, thank you so much for that reply, really going to make it easier for me setting this up

perry · May 26, 2009

no problem , have fun

ill assume you know to grease the frame/fork posts . drop of loctite on theads

cut the outer well , file so its flat . dab of grease on the ends can help stop water ingress . if the outers arnt dripping with lube there isnt enough

clean rim with white spirirt ( avoid getting it on the tyre )

Lysander · May 26, 2009

And once the brake is on, ye'll be twiddling with part no.2 to get it balanced right so the pads stay close to the rim either side.
Plus, when ye attach the cable to the arm, ye may want to have the adjuster at the brake lever about half way out- leaves ye room to get the setup right.....
(just changed some brake pads this very day, and of course had to reset the clearance to allow for the new thicker pads)

Lysander · May 26, 2009

mehh........double post.........move along, nothing to see......

But seein' as I'm here.......
*puts cap down, plays spoons, tapdances, sings*

Aaaaaawwwww..............................Moyy awd hmann's hay dhustminn......

*has elbows out naturally*

perry · May 26, 2009

i always have the adjuster wound in fully except out enough so the slot it at the bottom

i do all the adjusting at the v end . hold the cable with your thumb and index finger , loosen the bolt and pull tighter or let a fraction of cable through . always with my left hand so it leaves my right free to pull the lever . i have a park 4th hand tool but still prefer to do brakes this way . doing rear mechs all day though and the 4h hand becomes invaluable

dont tighten te bolt fully until you are entirely happy with it , crushing the cable then finding there neds to be more fettling is annoying

FluffyChicken · May 26, 2009

Dremel with the cutting blade makes a rear neat job of the outers and is brilliant for gear cables.

Also seamed easy to do it, watch out for melting the outers though, I've only melted it once.

I just wish they made the front v-brakes the correct way around instead of a copying of the back. Would stop having to double the cable back on it self and make for better braking.

dyna-ti · May 26, 2009

When setting the pads ,i usually have the barrel 1/2 -3/4 way out,i then tighten the cable with the pads hard against the rim ,then back off the barrel adjuster.
Balance the arms and away you go

Use whichever noodle gives you the smoothest curve

drystonepaul · May 26, 2009

I've scanned and uploaded some good articles about setting up V-brakes and all sorts of other maintenence guides in this thread:
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=53227

Hope this helps.

V Brake Set-Up Help

MarcusD

Dirt Disciple

perry

MarcusD

Dirt Disciple

perry

Lysander

Lysander

perry

FluffyChicken

dyna-ti

drystonepaul

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