Lacquer removal on carbon frame.

tkboyle

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Hi Guy's,

I have recently bought a old frame and will probably need to redo the decals although looking at the frame it could so with a fresh coat of lacquer.

My question is..


What's the best way to remove the lacquer. Would any chemicals work? Do I need to scrape it off?

Is there any other options or should I just not bother and live with it?

It's early 90's carbon frame with easton C9 tubing so it's carbon composite.
 
treat with great care. I would leave it or take to a pro to work on it :roll:
 
tintin40":1ku3k66g said:
treat with great care. I would leave it or take to a pro to work on it :roll:

+1

Don't put chemicals on it.

If you have to DIY, follow these steps...

Completely clean down the frame with Prepaint. Then carefully 'feather out' any chips with 1200 grade paper (wet) and then flat the complete frame with fine grade Scotchbrite- make sure you get every nook and crannie. Clean down again with a low solvent pre-paint and lint free cloths. Use a tack rag to remove dust and then re-laquer, 2 coats should do it (allow 12 hours between). Allow it to flash off for a day then get it near the radiator or in an airing cupboard to harden off for a week. Flat out and hand polish with rubbing compound to bring up the shine.

If you take your time the result should be as good as a pro job, but remember, if you fook it up you cannot get out the paint stripper and start again!!

Good luck

Si
 
If you follow the words of the good Dr you can't go wrong.

Carbon is likely sensitive to solvents used in paintstripper, so I would not use them. However, I will sand and prep it for paint. I have handbuilt, sanded, prepped and painted a dozen or so windsurfboards and though it IS rocket science, I managed just fine. BTW a Carbon composite sandwich windsurfboarder is big $$$ and very thin laminates. It does help that back in the early 90's I worked in composites product development.

Any composite lay-up I've ever worked with has a designated surface layer which is designed for surface finish. Also in quality carbon composites it is often a thin glass weave or mat. The modern superlite stuff may be different but anything that old will not be engineered down to the last final strand of fibres. If you occasionally hit the surface fibre layer when sanding down the lacquer there will be no big effect on the structural integrity.

You do need to work disciplined and avoid sanding spots down to the underlying structural layers. Stick with the higher grit numbers and avoid power tools you will be very tired before you get there, so you can hardly go wrong. Sculpted transitions between tubes will be more difficult, but that's equally true in production so there's more material there to start with.

Top tips:
1) Always degrease thoroughly before any sanding operation, other wise you drive the contaminants deep in the grooves with the grit, not good.
2) Never come within 100 yards of anything labeled Silicone :twisted: and
3) Use cleaners and primers specific to composite substrates. Notably the primer, once you have the correct primer coat most paint will work but check compatibility.

Some day I will do the same with my Mongoose Carbon Pro SX, but paint is only falling off the aluminium bits for now ;)

Enjoy!!
 
That's some top advice right there.

Many thanks people.

I will have a closer look at it tonight and identify if I really need to strip it back or just redo the decals.

I might leave as it is. This way it shows character.

Thanks.
 
Well I have decided that it's going to get stripped.

The lugs and rear triangle will be stripped v.carefully with nitromors this weekend.

Its then going to be sent it off to be polished locally.

After that I will mask up and deal with the carbon main tubes.

Shall be fun and will look a bit different from how it looks now.
 
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