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PostPosted: Sun Nov 26, 2006 8:33 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 3:35 pm
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Location: Newbury
i use sram chains on my Dh bike, the outer link plates are v.slightly thicker & the chains are sronger. shimano's will shift better though. especially when new.

the only thing i can think of, is maybe your casstte has a twisted tooth. hard to spot as they are from new, (hyperglide) in the past ive used a brand new one of the shelf, to compare.

as you said your's is new, but you've had this prob. then maybe, due to very slight misadjustment &/or not the best com. chain, putting power down straight away, (first ride) is what caused the pot. prob. (as above)

blimey, its to easy to get carried away trying to diagnose probs. its like being at work, exept ive got a bloody hangover, sat at home :roll:


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 8:38 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 25, 2006 8:02 pm
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Location: Stirling
Got the chain today, didn't solve the problem though. It must be the cassette, although I bought it new. I will check it to see if anything is bent. Damn thing, its driving me mad.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 10:20 pm 
retrobike rider
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Is it a different size (32t bottom,etc) is the jockey wheel hitting the cassette when its in the bottom gear. It may just need the b tension adjusted


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 11:09 am 
retrobike rider
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Location: Bristol
XTR Mech: there's a cam adjuster behind the mech to increase spring strength.

New 8 speed jockey wheels? ( Don't bother with XTR, just get the LX ).

B tension adjuster, undo it three full turns to start to get the top jockey closer for more wrap around ( common skip problem ).

Have you checked the wear at the chainset? The problem may be at the other end.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 11:10 am 
retrobike rider
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Cable outers! Just saw the photo and realised the biggest cause of " mystery skip " is too-short cable outers. Check them too.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 5:42 pm 
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Closer picks of the mech and cassette. Couple of things. I disconncected the cable inner, to check if it was the outer causing the problems. Just the same. The front rings are brand new. This cassette was brand new from chain reaction, does it look worn to anyone?

The BB may be a little narrow, causing the angle of the chain to be a little high, but it skips even when I put it in big ring. Got to original XT mech back on now to see if that makes any difference. Looks to me like it has to be the cassette. Thanks for the help everyone! :)


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 6:25 pm 
retrobike rider
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Okay, let's try daft ideas. Did you remove the jockey wheels recently and accidentally put them the wrong way up ( top to bbottom as it were )?


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 6:27 pm 
retrobike rider
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How about taking off the mech and giving it a good going over? Jockeys running freely, floater on top, nowt fouling the spring and so on?


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 6:32 pm 
retrobike rider
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Bodge suggestion: take a thin washer ( about 1/2mm ish ), take off the threaded end of the QR and stick it onto the axle so the inside touches the cassette and the outer surface butts up against the inside of the swing arm.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 6:46 pm 
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Dont think it is the mech, It was the same with the XTR and the XT mech. The whole rear wheel and cassette is new, its a Hope Ti hub, and I did run into problems with the XTR mech cos I could get it to adjust far enough down to get the chain onto the smallest cog. I tried a washer between the mech and the frame, which put the mech slightly further out, and it seemed to work,ie managed to get onto the little cog, but it still jumped. Am I correct in thinking that you reckon to put a washer between the hub and the frame to create a little more distance between the mech and cassette? I might try and find a good bike shop and take it there.


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