Free hub body problems - Help.

I have been checking part numbers and specs on Shimano tech docs.
It seems as if the cones for each are of a different size - so ultimately using the cone I have may well be a problem.
As I don’t know exactly what freehub body I have - most likely it’s the original part rather than the other compatible one as in SJS.

I am
Weighing my options :

1)To buy one from SJS and the matching cone/spacer set

2) to get the original part freehub body and hope my cone fits

3) to get a Deore MTB Hub and salvage the free hub body and appropriate parts from that - this would probably cost as much if not cheaper than a new freehub body!

What do you think?

There are a few hubs on sale

This for example :
https://www.fawkes-cycles.co.uk/673/pro ... b-36h.aspx

I looked through every M4xx M5xx M6xx M7xx tech diagram and cannot find this cone:

It actually looks more like the cone on a FH- M910 -

those cones were on older XT hubs and some road too

http://dt6110.web.fc2.com/parts/shaft10.html

Is it an 8spd freehub body?

I have rebuilt many hubs and have a box of spares.

The shimano cones are the same size but can differ in how they seal against the freehub (as you have found)

The freehubs with the extra metal washer that covers the bearings can be popped out so you can fit your own system or use something from a different hub

The bearings are all the same size in Shimano hubs going back to the early cassette models - I've yet to find anything different so far.

You may find that bearing cover in your original freehub may pop out and sit in the new freehub

If it were all in front of me, its a two cider job, whereas typing it all out is at least a 4 cider job.

You may find using two of the thin hex nuts found in Shimano hubs and experimenting with washer/ spacers allows tightening and adjustment to be a bit easier

Thanks for this and the messages - man I’d have bought you more than 2 ciders if you could sort this - but as you said - if it were in front it’d be easy for you -
- that’s interesting - it seems as if the parts are interchangeable - no wonder I couldn’t find the cone to match mine on the tech docs - mine has no spacers so either it’s a custom assembly or specific to this FRam hub.
mine may well have been ok if I’d found a way to secure the cone and lock nut together at the right pressure away from the bearings.

I’ve since changed the cartridge bearing in the off side so now it’s buttery soft and smooth so any friction which may have caused the axle to do what it did - may have lessened - but I can’t still work out how to secure the cone and lock nut

So my only option - for an easy long term no flaffing around fix would be either to buy a new freehub body with cone spacers lock nut combo

Or cannibalise a Deore M530/M525 rear hub for the freehub body and all the drive side parts - to just transfer all over to my axle and wheel.
Is this possible?

ok, i forgot to check, but have just looked at si.shimano.com , please note i haven't had time to read the other responses

here is the link to the fh-m750 hub, with exploded view, basically i you use the same cone/spacer and lock nut then the drive side should work

https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/stor ... 0-1789.pdf

here is the link to the FH-m756, you'll note that the part code between this and the m750 hub is different, so you really need to be specific as to which freehub you actually have

https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/stor ... -2099C.pdf

FYI the RM30 freehub is a totally different design

here is the link to FH-M615, again a different part code for the freehub

https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/stor ... 5-3513.pdf


basically, identify the freehub you have, if it came in a packet with a shimano label then it should have a part code, something like 3bc9801, possibly with a y in front of it and a zero on the end, sometimes the extra digits are used sometimes they are not.

once you know the freehub, then you can identify the correct cones/spacers etc using the above charts with part codes, if you have any trouble getting them give me a call at my shop and i should be able to get them for you 02380 890712

Thanks for this
I’m going to have a look in the garage in the morning to see whether the packet had any part code
But according to the other posts and the video - the FRM hub is compatible with M530/M525 part number Y3SR98050.
So I’ll need to get one of these. Unless of course a) the new freehub body I have (which looks like the M615 you linked above- but which I’ll need to identify) can work with my Wheelhub - in Which case I find the matching cone and spacers locknut assembly parts as you advised

I’ve realised that the cheapest option would be to just buy a M530/M525 Rear hub - new, and salvage the freehub body cone and spacers off of it - and transfer it over. Can someone pls confirm if this is something which is possible to do effectively?

Essentially you are building half a hub so match the cone and spacer to the new freehub body and you should be fine - so whatever comes with the 'new' hub, use that with the matching freehub body so it all fits then fit it to the hub with your sealed bearing left half.

Or go really mad and get a freehub body machined to accept the same sealed bearing

I’m still confused - What I don’t understand is -
If the Freehub body Slots in and has the same dimensions and clearance as the original - why can’t I just use ANY Shimano Freehub body - with the matching cone/locknut spacer assembly with it on the axle drive side I have? So, say For example if I had an XTR freehub body with matching cone array - in theory I could fit and use this? Or does it have to be the exact model the hub manufacturer states?

As for what I’ll do - I am looking for a new M530 or M525 rear hub which I’ll take apart and put its freehub body - cone/spacer/locknut onto the Drive side of my hub. Seems like the safest, quickest, easiest and cheapest option - rather than individual parts and part numbers.