Raleigh Maverick - A head & Fork dilemma?

Rob36

Retro Newbie
Hi all. New to the forum.
I have a Raleigh Maverick - at least, I think that what it is. I was given the bike as an old junker several years ago. I did a bit of work on it, including peeling off the main sticker as it was scruffy - an Im now not 100% certain what it was haha!
The bike has had a few little upgrades over the years, but I fancy changing the horrible quill stem in favor of an ahead - and heres the problem.
While the steering tube on the fork is indeed a 1" OD, it must have a fairly thick wall, as the quill OD is only 21.1mm! And I cant find an adapter to fit it.
Soo - Would a swap over to a threadless fork/headset be a workable option? The head tube is 30mm ID I think. Id quite fancy some suspension forks on it tbh!
Its a budget bike so wouldnt want to spend a lot - It would be against the whole ethos of the bike :D :cool:

Any advice on if its possible, and what probs might be encountered, or indeed anyone who's selling any of the appropriate bits would be most appreciated! Thanks!
Heres a pic of the bike...
 

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Re:

I think the 21.1mm inner steerer tube dimension was more common on BMX frames/forks, presumably so that the steerer tube walls were thicker and stronger, but I may be wrong. Raleigh did take a rather mix and match approach and use whatever was in the parts bin with some of their lower cost frames.

You can get quill to threadless adapters: https://www.sgvbicycles.com/products/qu ... 1-1-8-html, however, the end result is unlilely to be any more elegant than what you have.

If you change to a set of threadless forks, they will need to be 1", which are far less common than 1-1/8". Also, bear in mind that to get your handlebars in a similar position, you would need a long steerer tube and ~80mm worth of spacers. You would also need to find a 1" A-head stem or use a shim with a 1-1/8" stem.

All in all, you may be better off sticking with what you have, or looking for a different frame and forks, or possibly a whole new bike. It could work out more cost effective than adapting what you have.
 
Re:

Other stuff to consider is Raleigh MTV's that used 21.1mm steerer's often had bmx head tubes that lie somewhere between the head tube diameter for a 1" headset and a 1&1/8" headset. First you'd need to check this. If it is the case, shims exist to sleeve down the headtube to fit a standard 1" headset. Then of course you need a fork with a long enough 1" AHead thread less steerer tube which is no longer an easy find. Cheapo suspension forks in 1" are common but rubbish so finding anything good could be difficult and finally that old frame would not be happy with any suspension greater than 50mm. As previous poster says, best stick with what you've got.
 
Ah ok - Thanks for the comments chaps. Maybe Im best taking the advice of those more knowledgable and sticking as-is then, or getting an A Head adapter from the US and leaving the forks. Can I ask why the frame wouldnt be happy with a longer travel than 50mm? Im assuming this is due to the geometry of the frame rather than a strength issue or whatever? Id have thought the old girl is pretty strong!
 
Re:

Yeah it's to do with the frame geometry.
That's not to say you can't fit a suspension fork with say 100mm of travel, but doing so tends to raise the front end up, slacken all the angles, and make the steering seem rather weird.
So often the negative effects outweigh the positives.

Looks like you picked the right/wrong bike to change a few parts on :LOL:
 
Most of us bodgers have tried the over long fork idea. I had a DB Topanga which I fitted 80mm travel forks for which it was not designed. Yes it was rideable but I had to fit a long stem and move my seat right forward to keep enough weight over the front end to stop going front end light and losing traction which is important for turns and braking. All in all handling was not great or confidence inspiring :roll:
 
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Ah! Yeah that makes sense now. Like having a car that’s too light or heavy at the front causing understeer / oversteer. Mind you! that bike has always been a bit front heavy/twitchy on the steering, and the riding position is a bit stretched - I wonder if it might inadvertently sort that out lol! I see the risk now tho - big gamble for the expense involved.
 
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