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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2018 10:26 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2009 11:13 pm
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Location: Skipton
Hi all. Had some bother removing a drive side crank. To be fair my extractor was weathered and the second option was a Aldi special but either way it hasn’t shifted. Thing is the frame has come up really well so i’d like to build it with my choice of parts as originally planned so need the current DX crank off.

Before I resort to the bike shop I plan to either heat or cool it and try again. Question is, with a steel axel in a aluminium crank which way should I go for best results?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2018 11:22 pm 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Mon Sep 27, 2010 12:17 am
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Location: At The Gates Of Dawn
I've got a similar problem to yours - steel pedal axle stuck in aluminium crank - and I think the way to go is to heat the area and as aluminium expands faster than steel it should loosen the corrosion. Shock treatment ie: the judicious use of a hammer might help it along.

I suppose you could also freeze the steel axle and there's an interesting vid here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0PeK7VfUMAI

but I'm not totally convinced by it. I wish you luck with your difficulty and I think patience plays a part in it as well.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2018 11:29 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Thanks Michael, that makes sense. Heating is easier also and I need a new extractor!


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2018 11:31 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Wed Jun 15, 2016 8:39 pm
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Location: Southampton, Hampshire
It's an obvious question but have you tried Halfrauds "shock & unlock" spray? I've had some good results with it.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2018 12:02 am 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Location: Skipton
Not yet mate but will now. :D


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2018 12:50 am 
Gold Trader
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Joined: Fri Aug 20, 2010 11:28 am
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Location: Gorleston-on-sea (If there is a bright center to the universe this is place furthest from it
No heat,no cold, just these :wink:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Drill-Chuck- ... 2544446065


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2018 1:21 am 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Sat Dec 07, 2013 9:22 am
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Location: West Yorkshire, then London, now Sydney.
Pop the kettle on.

Slowly pour the boiling water over the end of the crank by the BB or pedal, and try removing again.

The heat will expand the alu just enough to free the steel.

Might take more than one go but you can have a cuppa and a biscuit while you're doing it.


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2018 8:27 am 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2010 4:13 pm
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Location: Royal Forest of Dean (Still looking for the Bear !)
kermitgreenkona88 wrote:



Are you speaking from experience or that they look like they might work

I can see the advantage of these wedges pushing and perhaps an extractor pulling you’d get a bigger bang for your buck, but if your extractor cannot be used I can’t see these working without a lot of brute force and potential damage from a mid guided hammer blow

Like the concept and the added push power here and will be following this thread closely as I too have a similar problem


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2018 8:44 am 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Tue Nov 14, 2006 2:27 pm
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Location: In the Woods. . .
Exactly what Michael and Jon Tom said.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2018 8:52 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Fri May 08, 2009 11:14 am
Posts: 62
Location: Tasmania
Had some topline cranks that had not been move for 15 years and stuck solid.
Using a ball joint splitter and a spare crank bolt, I put as much tension on the crank as I dared.
Then applied gentle heat to the crank with a heat gun. around 30sec later the crank popped off. Reckon the crank was no more than 40 degrees C when it let go.


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