Guides for assembling and truing Tioga Disk Drive...

jez-4-bikes-max

Kona Fan
Feedback
View
Is there a definitive guide on Retrobike of how to build / true a Disk Drive? I'm surprised noone has created one yet (with pics).

Scouring the Search and there isn't anything very informative.
 
Exactly the same principles as building a spoked wheel, Jeremy.

Built one two years ago and have another one to build soon. Well, I supervised a wheelbuilder building mine two years ago... Just needs a Philips scredriver to turn the nipples from inside the rim opposed to a tightening with a spoke key on traditional nipples.

Download the DD instructions from the archive for the order in which to attach the nipples to the discs for best/uniform pretensioning. Then tighten each nipple and true it as per normal wheel.

My only personal advice is to attach the discks to the hub a day before tensioning the discs/nipples to the rim so that the threadlock has good time to cure on the nuts and bolts.


Good luck dude.
 

Attachments

  • tdd.jpeg
    tdd.jpeg
    163 KB · Views: 817
Re:

When I was truing mine (when I still had one) I had to make a doo-dah to hold the silver button disc steady while I adjusted the nipples. I think there is a proper tool but I didn't have it.
 
Jez

Just found this info when searching for tips for myself. The nutlock info is particualrly useful.

Endless Goods - Endless Goods is offline":q22bb7pf said:
mtbr member

Reputation:

Join Date
Jul 2004
Posts
13
(long time lurker, first time poster...)

-If you're buying the wheel for the sound, reconsider your decision, as the saddest thing about this wheel is that the RIDER cannot hear it's lovely sound, only those off the bike. You may hear an echo off a building or wall at times, but not the "drum" sound that you heard back in the day when Tomes flew by.

-The feel is a little strange. It varies considerably depending on the age of the wheel, and who built it and to what standard it was built. There is a bit of lateral flex for a large rider (170LBS+) and at low speeds it can feel sketchy when turning. There is a noticeable dampening effect, especially when riding a hardtail.

-My most durable wheel was built by Wheelsmith around 1994 and has NEVER needed truing...believe it or not. Most report frequent need to true the wheel, but in my estimation, they weren't built properly.

-Preferred rims are Mavic 231 for 26" and Araya RM-17 for 26" also. Unsure of 700C rim compatibility. Mavic/Araya would be safest.

-Preferred hubs for 26" are M900 XTR, M910 XTR, Ringle SuperBubba, and Hugi. M950 XTR works also, but is a little strange paired with the old-school disk. Hugi worked for Kim Sonier of Team Kahlua back in the day, but the canted flange design looks suspect in its interaction with the Tension disk flange to me. Would sound quite cool, though.

-According to a friend who was head of marketing at Tioga when these were available, the hub flange mounting bolts MUST be prepared with PERMANENT loctite (red). Apply to nut, not screw. Rim mounting bolts and nipples MUST be prepared with TEMPORARY (blue) loctite. Throw away the Tioga-supplied thread lock.

-First designed by Tadashi Yashiro of Team Cycle World 846 in Japan during the late 80's and manufacturing rights sold to Sugino. Tioga simply paid Sugino to market their version in the US and Europe, while Sugino were available only in Europe. Tooling to produce these was horridly expensive, hence the high cost.

-In my estimation, they would have been more widely received had they been cheaper, and pre-assembled, as I believe their suspect reputation is due in large part to improper assembly.

-Tomac did indeed only get around 50-60 hours of use for each wheel made by his expert mechanic Bob Gregorio (where is he these days?) but then again, he is Tomac. I've ridden them for 10+ years and zero failures.

-Tioga Versions are as follows:

700C dark clear 36H
26" blue comp mesh geodesic 1st gen inflation cutout 36H
26" blue comp mesh geodesic 2nd gen inflation cutout 36H
26" clear pro geodesic 2nd gen inflation cutout 36H
26" clear pro non-geodesic triple-laced no inflation cutout 32H

-Sugino Versions

700C dark clear 36H
26" blue geodesic 2nd gen inflation cutout 36H
26" tan/cream mesh geodesic 1st gen inflation cutout 36H

-The final generation 32H triple-laced (non-geodesic) version is the strongest and lightest. You can even cut out the Mylar as Gregorio did at the Hunter Mountain World Cup, and retain the sound.
 
Re: Re:

ishaw":1u8rsot5 said:
Regretfully letting one of mine go. It's a great frame,but I never ride it. It's also got a fox air shock with oem trunnion so lighter and a much better ride for it.

Take a look if you fancy taking a dive into the sts pool:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=387721

Got plenty of spares too.

Might sell my other one too (full betd bearing conversion, fox rear air shock with custom trunnion) and the version with the external routing for the seat tube.

Sad times but I've never ridden either since building.


Mr Shaw

Have you been on the shandies on the evening before a school day ?
the above makes no sense being in this thead

Nice bike by the way but sadly no disco in sight. !
 
Vecioalpinn":g0089v5x said:
I have the original instructions. Tomorrow if I can, I will publish them
They’re already in the RB archive available for downloading ;)
 
Back
Top