Extending the thread of a steerer

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Anyone with the capability of extending the threaded portion of a steel steerer on my Syncros fork?

If anyone can help I would most appreciate it.
 
Re:

Are you looking to have the steerer extended or just to have the threads cut a little longer?

If the latter, any half decent bike shop should still have the tools to do the job for the price of a packet of biscuits.
 
Re: Re:

cherrybomb":3itm3ejg said:
Are you looking to have the steerer extended or just to have the threads cut a little longer?

If the latter, any half decent bike shop should still have the tools to do the job for the price of a packet of biscuits.

No bike shops near me would touch a steel fork steerer that I wanted about another inch of thread cutting onto. Even ye olde fashioned bike shop who still had the proper tools for the job would attempt it :(
Paying someone to cut more threads plus return postage just wasn't cost effective so I moved the forks on...
 
Re:

I'm sorry I can't remember the name of the member here who did an excellent job extending the steerer on a set of Dekerf Tuning forks for me...I'll rack my brain
 
Yup, I can cut the thread down more for you.
Correct tools and diestocks available for 1", 1.125" and 1.25".

Cost? between £5 and £10 per inch plus postage (Much harder and time consuming to cut the bigger diameters, since you ask...:))

All the best,
 
Re:

iirc Dave Yates ruined somebodys Marin fork when trying to extend thread.
 
In his defence, it can happen sometimes and there's not much that can be done other than cut the steerer and splice in some fresh threaded tube.

I've had some steerers, particularly ones on press-fitted suspension forks, where the metal has been or become hardened, and consequently is very 'chippy'. Whereas the normal brazed or welded fork ones are generally much softer and produce proper curls of cut swarf.

You can feel it by running a fresh file across the metal. A softer steel will snag the file, whereas the hardened stuff just slips across.
Ideally these would be tempered first, then re-hardened after thread cutting.

Also, lots of cutting oil, clean the swarf out as much as possible and NEVER cut more than 1/8 of a turn without backing the tool and cutting the swarf chip, otherwise it gets caught in the following die flute and chews up the new thread.

All the best,
 
danson67":146lauyz said:
Yup, I can cut the thread down more for you.
Correct tools and diestocks available for 1", 1.125" and 1.25".

Cost? between £5 and £10 per inch plus postage (Much harder and time consuming to cut the bigger diameters, since you ask...:))

All the best,


That's cheap as chips...

I've just ordered a 1 1/4'' die for my LBS.

I'm going short headtube long evolution steerer from now on, just to get my money's worth.


al.
 
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