Bottom Bracket Threading??

oldave

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I think I must finally have reached my dotage...

Spent 2-3 hours attempting to remove b/b on my 1990 Raleigh Mirage. All my usual methods (only ever before failed once including VERY old and battered '50s - '70s frames) got me nowhere. As whole bike (paint and parts in very little used nick) cost me 35 quid decided not worth any more time, so removed all the parts. Once bare thought I'd try the tool in vice method. And .....with huge effort it came out. BUT the stuck drive side is not LH threaded. And yes I've tested and re-tested and it screws back in clockwise. Surely this is wrong?

I wouldn't have got it out other than with the vice method so I guess I'll use the opportunity to thoroughly clean it as I put it back together. But what b/b do I use? The one that eventually came out is shot as I'd already gone for the full destruction method of removal!

I am confused.....
 
Re:

Indeed - and on some frames I would have acted accordingly sooner! But on a 1990 Raleigh Mirage "mtb" it never crossed my mind until it was nearly too late!
 
I missed the frame in your first post :facepalm:

Does seem a bit strange... what's the shell width? Are the threads in the frame good, or has it possibly been retapped to italian thread (occasionally used as a fix for damaged english threads, since the italian thread is about 1mm greater diameter than then english one) ?
 
Touch over 68 shell! Haven't yet checked threads in detail, but the bike was/is so original, with no signs of it ever having had a spanner laid on it, let alone having been dismantled, that I doubt any major tinkering!

Not sure if Raleigh still using own standards as late as '90 - wondering if it's also 26 tpi.
 
Just for info/interest....

The fixed cup is, according to the Shimano casing the "L", which had been inserted on the "R" drive side - from new I'd guess. So either put in wrong way round or the stamping on the shell is wrong!

Suspect I'll be installing a threadless b/b.
 
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