Paint color formula matching registry?

Is there a listing/catalog of restoration paint color codes that members have found to match vintage frame sets and other painted bits? Specifically I am hoping that someone has a formula match for Rock Shox Judy yellow c.1995 and GT Timberline FS Green c.1995. I would be a cool idea to create if it has not already been compiled.

As an example, suppose the c.1995 Judy SL yellow is a match for the Audi B5 S4 Imola Yellow, then a rattle can could be mixed precisely at a local auto paint supplier.

Does a color registry like this exist?

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There isn't one on this forum, in fact very little on exact paint matches. Not that much on matching paint as most get no answers.

To be fair, most matches would be to faded colours and that would need noting in this listing.

I do think it's a very good idea though.

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A key question is if paint books, swatches and specs from the time were kept or archived and could be found. It would be a great idea but 20 plus years back manufacturers wouldn't have accounted for a wave of nostalgia, Retrobike and people restoring bikes. Some may have kept references but I guess it's gonna take much effort and correspondence to find out period specs. Bearing in mind the effects of wear and fading, I guess it's going to be down to approximate colour matching and mixing with current systems and modern paint formulas, say like RAL colours. It will be even harder matching flamboyants, etc.

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Well I'm going to make a start. Modern paint suppliers can mic a sample and match it very closely. Even with sun fade, on frames there would likely be some area where paint is relatively clean and unfaded. Nonetheless, I agree it would be harder for the two color fades and brilliant colors. I will publish what I find for the Judys and for the GT Timberline FS I am touching up for my son.

The problem with colour codes is there multiple tints within any manufacturers code, for example in the UK Vauxhall Artic White had 8 different tints from the factory depending on when & where it was painted.
You really need to take the item you want matched to large auto paint factor & they will use a spectrum analyser to get correct mix & give you the tint mix codes.

Even B&Q use this technology, but sadly don't supply the right type of paint.

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Calibration is critical for consistency. However, colour is subjective too and there will be variations between producers, mixers, how it's applied, what it's applied too and so on. Working in the graphics and printing industry, I know that with any particular Pantone reference you quote and specify, there will always be slight variations.

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groovyblueshed":3as29xom said:

Calibration is critical for consistency. However, colour is subjective too and there will be variations between producers, mixers, how it's applied, what it's applied too and so on. Working in the graphics and printing industry, I know that with any particular Pantone reference you quote and specify, there will always be slight variations.

Click to expand...

I have seen many attempts at color matching that have started with a PMS equivalent request. Printing and painting are two totally different industries. PMS swatch books have nowhere near the range of lacquer colors available, with additives and clear coat effects. Rereading your reply, I don't think you are suggesting that PMS matching is the means to ensure a pigment match, but I will rest my case on this matter at any rate here so that none tries to suggest such a system as a base going forward.

I agree with you and other before in this thread that there will possibly be variances in color coats sampled due to aging and sun bleaching that could then lead to inaccuracies in final results, and that they could be compounded by differences in application and finishing techniques, but my goal is to allow for a comprehensive reference that provides a starting point for base and color coats so that factory look can be achieved. No one wants to refinish classic Judy SL lowers in a 'lemony' or 'limey' yellow. We all know what they are 'supposed' to look like, so if they are 'off' then they won't look right. If a sample is taken from a sun bleached, flatted finish representative, when sprayed the final product will look like a shiny new sun bleached faded whatever, and that will look 'off' too.

The auto lacquer industry does a pretty good job of standardizing finishes so that repair garages and body shops can make panel repairs that match the rest of the motor. Bike manufacturers use similar finishes and apply similar methods for application. It shouldn't be hard to start a list as we discover what works if we agreed to providing all the info needed to achieve the desired outcome.

As an example, I expect my c.1995/6 Judy SL formula may include:

• a primer base coat spec
• a color coat spec
• a top/clear coat spec

Because it is yellow, I think the primer will be a bonding type and either light grey or white if available. The color coat spec would have a PPG (common in US) or other world standard pigment identification number that can be decoded and mixed to match by your local paint supplier as needed. I will likely use a two-part epoxy clear for durability, and it will have a finish spec as well, either matte, satin, or gloss.

I am a step off my intended schedule this week, I had hoped to go by my local auto finish store and see what they would be able to tell me, but I have been sidetracked with work, so I'll likely get on it in earnest next week. I need to have some wicked blue metallic/pearl color coat finish mixed up for this too:



[supercharger and intercooled intake manifold with custom Autobot lid design for my 2007 Audi S4 4.2L V8] ;-)

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That's gonna be blue metallic/pearl? Awesome.

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I saw this cheeky spoof posted last night somewhere. I'm thinking of repainting my Clockwork in either "Cups in storage" or "Three lonely farmers" or "Don't talk to Uncle Doug".

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Lol!