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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 8:20 pm 
Old School Grand Master

Joined: Wed Jun 29, 2005 11:18 am
Posts: 15804
Location: near cwmcarn
gaf16 wrote:
most of my wheels are radial spoked.
i just like the look of them over conventional spoke designs.
i've made sure mine were built by a respectable wheel builder though :wink:


you still work in abergavenny? I know plenty of trails to test em out on ;)


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 8:39 pm 
BoTM Winner
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Joined: Sun Oct 23, 2005 7:22 pm
Posts: 742
Location: Wooster, Ohio
Radial lacing has always been an appearance issue, as it truly does build a weaker wheel (professionally built or not).

While it does save weight, you would still be better off pushing away from the table a bit early than to sacrifice the longevity of your wheel to save a few grams.

As for the torsional forces and stress transferred to the hub flange, you should be fine building radially on a forged hub shell but stay away from any radial lacing on any cnc flange.

Bottom line I guess...if you plan on riding the bike as it was intended, do yourself right and lace up a bomber wheelset. If it is going to be a garage queen, anything goes :)

cheers,

rody


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 8:43 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 5:21 pm
Posts: 933
Location: staffordshire, uk
scant,

you have a point.
for the type of light trail riding i can manage, radial spoke is fine.
hardcore mountain loons like you, well, that's another matter :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 9:10 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Mon Mar 20, 2006 7:50 pm
Posts: 68
Radial is also possible in competition use. I builded wheels for a Dutch team that all use radial, front and rear (rear cassetteside is crossed). They abuse the wheels alot but if they are build with great care it is as good as any other wheel.

Take note you have to use a spoke and nipple from a higher level and use a tensionmeter when you build, a wheel with stress lives shorter than you can think.

I always used DT Alpine 3 spokes with Prolock nipples, tension on DT meter between 2.00 and 2.15


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 1:03 am 
98+ BoTM | BoTM | Gold | Rider
98+ BoTM | BoTM | Gold | Rider
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Joined: Thu Mar 23, 2006 12:48 am
Posts: 6648
Location: Kingdom of Ringlé
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I had a Pace hub build up to an old FiR rim on my Clockwork some years ago and it never failed. I was advised to use brass nipples tho instead of trick aluminium ones.. At least I hope it failed catastrophically on the &%$ that stole it.. :twisted:

It does look great, and I think that's why I like my Crossmaxs so much [new and old]..

It also makes a difference whether the spokes are pulled from inside the flange or the outside.. I think from the inside is the most popular/strongest..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2006 11:52 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Mon Mar 20, 2006 7:50 pm
Posts: 68
kingroon wrote:

It also makes a difference whether the spokes are pulled from inside the flange or the outside.. I think from the inside is the most popular/strongest..


Absolutely, forgot to mention that!

The stress on the spoke-end is much higher if you build a wheel with the top to the inside of the hubflange. The curved spoke-end will be eager to burst when you bump into something. It also looks a bit strange...but that's just looks.

Also make sure the treadet part of the nipple is completely inside the nipple and best is to see a bit comming out of the nipple, this way you are sure it's on full strength.


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