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PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 10:42 pm 
The Guv'nor
The Guv'nor
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Joined: Sun Jul 03, 2005 11:19 pm
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Location: Retrobike HQ
cchris2lou wrote:
I cant see how you can cut inside the seat tube with that .

You still would need a saw .


Exactly.

All the seized postswe ever had when I was mechanicing we managed to get out using lots of oil / plus gas and brute force.

The one seized post I had was in a steel road frame I'd just bought.
Tucked up? yes. Can you move the post mate? Of course...just can't quite find an allen key...
Anyhow it was an old tioga carbolite carbon wrapped mtb post in a road frame. So plenty of overlap. Tried the hacksaw method with no success. I had no workstand at the time and eventually got bored chasing it round the garden. Argos sorted it in a jiffy...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 10:58 pm 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
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Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2005 7:45 pm
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Location: kent
Argos probably used a Blue torch . apply heat to the seat tube and pull very hard .


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2006 11:24 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2006 11:02 pm
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Location: Hayling Island
Depending on the severity a kettle of boiling water on the seat tube whilst spraying the post with GT 85 then putting frame upside down in a vice and clamping post whilst turning and pulling frame up usually worked.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2006 10:53 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Wed Aug 16, 2006 12:36 am
Posts: 586
We use a product called 'Loctite 8040 Freeze and release spray'. This product rapidly freezes a seized component causing it to shrink very slightly compared to the recess it is seized into. When the component shrinks it opens up a small gap so the release oil can penetrate properly. I used it last week to remove some pistons that had corroded into an engine that had been stored for 3 years in damp conditions and we use it day to day to remove seized components on 15 year old cars where the last time a nut was turn was when it was in the fatory. Good stuff, worth a shot.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 10:10 am 
Ain't no party like an S Club party
Ain't no party like an S Club party
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Joined: Thu May 25, 2006 4:54 pm
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Location: UK
Wanted to bring this back to the top for a bit more advice...

After spending ages concentrating on the Pace and Klein I've finally decided to bring in my old GT from the shed and give it some attention. Forgotten really what a beautiful bike it is ('92 Avalanche in Daktari White). Everything is there but it's not looking too pretty having been sat for over ten years unused...

The post is stuck solid in the frame and I wanted to check before trying these methods that it'll be ok. The frame's steel and so too the post I think (will grab a magnet tonight when home). I don't want to be stripping paint off the frame cos all the decals are original and in ok nick (even the warning stickers on the forks...) and there's no chance of ever being able to replace them so don't want to be resrpraying. There's rust spots everywhere but these will clean up.

Secondly, anyone know what diameter seatpost the frame takes so I can start hunting replacements please?

Finally, was considering putting my old maguras on but have decided to keep it u-braked for more authenticity and to keep use of the 'grove-tube' cable routing. As everything is off the bike and in bits, and has been for ages I've no idea whether the brake I've got is complete - if I were to post some pics would people be able to advise whether I'm missing bits and if so what please?

Ok that's it. Sorry for the essay and thanks in advance...!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 11:26 am 
Ain't no party like an S Club party
Ain't no party like an S Club party
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Joined: Thu May 25, 2006 4:54 pm
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Location: UK
Cheeky 'bump'! Post is steel... Anyone got any ideas regarding my previous post please? Ta.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 11:36 am 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
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Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2005 7:45 pm
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Location: kent
without damaging the frame , the saw blade is your best option . the post is probably corroded and the chemical reaction of the rust must have welded it to the frame .


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 1:12 pm 
Ain't no party like an S Club party
Ain't no party like an S Club party
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Joined: Thu May 25, 2006 4:54 pm
Posts: 7133
Location: UK
Ar$e! You weren't supposed to say that...! Oh well, anyone got an idea of the diameter of the post I'll need to start looking for to replace it with please? '92 GT Avalanche... I'm thinking maybe 26.8 but I don't want to risk getting that wrong...! Cheers


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 Post subject: stuck seatpost
PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 10:48 am 
Old School Hero
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Joined: Wed Jul 20, 2005 11:09 pm
Posts: 244
Location: Gateshead, England
It's finally out, after 3 1/2 hours of effort, 1 can of loctite 8040 freeze/release spray, three hacksaw blades and a few layers of skin it's out. ended up cutting the post leaving 1". then hacksaw a split the whole length of the bit that stuck in the frame. Hammer a very thin screwdriver to leaver the post away from the seat tube and twisted the whole post out.

Now just need to decide whether to do a full retro build or make it everyday useable with a disk brake on the front, thomson stem etc. The other spec would be cooks cranks, 117 ceramic rims on hope and machine tec hubs, XTR canti's, front and rear mech, XT thumbshifters, ringle post and stem. King headset, ringle ti-twisters, litespeed ti bars, xlite bar ends and proshift levers. so it's either blue retro gear or black non-retro kit.

going to fit SID forks and remove the original judy SL's and put them in storage.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 6:33 pm 
B.o.T.M. Winner / Gold Trader
B.o.T.M. Winner / Gold Trader
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Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2005 7:45 pm
Posts: 7176
Location: CAMBRIDGE .. UK
dont bother with soda, takes 3 months and does sweet fa apart form fiz... i drilled mine out, but again it was an old trek...


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