L/H (x3) sti gear shifter problem

kalex

Retro Guru
I've got a shimano brake and sti gear combo for the front derailleur x3 speed. i'm not sure what model but it's only a lower range like exage and it's also hardly used. But I can only get the granny and middle ring, when I try for the outer ring the lever just pushes without any resistance ( No rachet type of feel).

i've had this before on higher end shifters but I know they were beyond well used so I chucked them thinking the mechanism was worn. but as this is the same problem on old but as good as new shifter i'm wondering if it could be something simple.

can anyone help me before I have to buy matching brake and gear lever for front and rear.
 
Open the bottom cover of the shifter to expose the inner gubbins. Usually 1 small phillips screw down on the thumb lever.

Flush the shifter mech liberally with a solvent. I use Coleman camp stove fuel, but whatever light hydrocarbon solvent you wish to use will work. Zippo style lighter fluid in its little stream nozzle tin works well. Flush and work the mech over and over till crunchiness (sand/grit) goes away. Dry off as best you can, add light oil (I use ATF), and re-assemble.

That usually does it. It's a combo of grit and dried grease that gums up a ratchet prawl that typically causes this. Usually a quick flush or 10 is all it takes. I've had success with this technique on multiple Shimano shifters (LX-XTR) and on Shimano 105 brifters.

J
 
FSXStumpy":1xvsirko said:
Open the bottom cover of the shifter to expose the inner gubbins. Usually 1 small phillips screw down on the thumb lever.

Flush the shifter mech liberally with a solvent. I use Coleman camp stove fuel, but whatever light hydrocarbon solvent you wish to use will work. Zippo style lighter fluid in its little stream nozzle tin works well. Flush and work the mech over and over till crunchiness (sand/grit) goes away. Dry off as best you can, add light oil (I use ATF), and re-assemble.

That usually does it. It's a combo of grit and dried grease that gums up a ratchet prawl that typically causes this. Usually a quick flush or 10 is all it takes. I've had success with this technique on multiple Shimano shifters (LX-XTR) and on Shimano 105 brifters.

J

thanks for the reply.

I'd already taken it apart and it looks extremely clean. I will give it a good flush with a cleaner tomorrow and see what happens.

am I correct in thinking that a stuck rachet arm isn't engaging and this causing my none resistance feel
 
Re:

Which model is it.
On most you can see the ratchet responsible, check it is working.
Some will come off with the circlipnremoved and some need more work (or it is internal ratchet problems on earlier shifter).
But yes just strio and clean them if you need to and cleaning,Wd40 and a line doesn't work.

It may be, depending on model, the spring hat pulls the ratchet arm (pawl) isn't working very well and need stiffening up with a bit of bending manipulation.
 
Re:

Got the PM yes the exage so the first of the lower end rapidfires.
I can't quite remember the layout inside but look for the pawls ratcheting on the ring spiky.ring (or could be an inner stepped surface if like the higher end).
That's the push prart if the system. There will be another release pawl just whatch what it is doing.

The other thing to check is the front mech cable stops, but what you describe sound like a pawl problem.
 
Re:

here's some pics of the inners, out of curiosity will any other model inners fit my housing.

I also need just the barrel adjuster screw






 
Look pretty clean to me. I'd bet solvent flush and oil will clear'em out. Use a solvent that evaps fairly quickly (petrol type stuff, but not petrol). Oil it with solvent still on it and the evaping solvent will draw the oil in without disassembling anything.

IMHO, best to try the non-disassembling method first, as getting these back together can be a touch frustrating. And I've never had solvent/oil fail to fix the described issue.

J
 
FSXStumpy":1k051hws said:
Look pretty clean to me. I'd bet solvent flush and oil will clear'em out. Use a solvent that evaps fairly quickly (petrol type stuff, but not petrol). Oil it with solvent still on it and the evaping solvent will draw the oil in without disassembling anything.

IMHO, best to try the non-disassembling method first, as getting these back together can be a touch frustrating. And I've never had solvent/oil fail to fix the described issue.

J

Yes I definitely do want to take these apart. I will try what you both suggest when I get time and i'll post my findings.

hopefully it will start working but I'm looking at other cheap options for dual brake and gear lever for cantilever brakes
 
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