Stuck neck inside a Marin...

I was looking for a set of wheels for my bike, but found it was cheaper to just get a complete vintage bike instead.

I ended up buying a 1992 Marin Eldridge Trail. This thing was ridden the crap out of... but i got it for 60$ and the wheels were fine.

I decided to rebuild the bike and give it to my niece. I will be taking the powder coat route, and from what i have researched so far will cost me about 160$ for frame fork and stem.

Few questions...

The neck is stuck in the fork...bolt is out. What is the best way to seperate them?

Is it supposed to be orange pink or red?

and finally...sometimes i see the rear triangle pinted red, sometimes its the neck and fork, and sometimes the handlebar also. the original handlebars on this one were not coloured...

Is it a quill stem on these? if so you have to undo the bolt a bit then hit it down with a mallet/hammer which will release the taper joint, if this makes sense.

Make sure you put the bolt back in the thread a few turns before wacking it

Re:

What he said, see here: http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/h ... ngs-22225/

Max in Montreal":3ducmvd4 said:

Few questions...

The neck is stuck in the fork...bolt is out. What is the best way to seperate them?

Is it supposed to be orange pink or red?

and finally...sometimes i see the rear triangle pinted red, sometimes its the neck and fork, and sometimes the handlebar also. the original handlebars on this one were not coloured...

Click to expand...

Few answers...

1. I would personally soak it in some sort of penetrating liquid, we have something called Plusgas over here and is great for unsiezing rusted things.

2. It is supposed to be neon red but fades quick easily in direct sunlight.

3. What you have is the alternative colour scheme for the '92 Eldridge Grade, the other version is satin black with fluorescent red seatstays and chainstays with a neon red stem. the bars were silver on this years model.

Max in Montreal":216wiwbo said:

I was looking for a set of wheels for my bike, but found it was cheaper to just get a complete vintage bike instead.

Click to expand...

Sounds like something we tell our wife's!

spitball":23y0wfpz said:

Is it a quill stem on these? if so you have to undo the bolt a bit then hit it down with a mallet/hammer which will release the taper joint, if this makes sense.

Make sure you put the bolt back in the thread a few turns before wacking it

Click to expand...

That was the first thing came to mind too.
Bolt taken straight out leaves the wedge still jammed in.

I take it out 1/2" then bash it in. then out a little more and thump it again. If its reasonably free of gunk you can hear the wedge fall. Ive a couple of xxl bolts that are handy to get the fully clear if there is a lot of gunk or rust blocking its free passage.

Rampage":23y0wfpz said:

Max in Montreal":23y0wfpz said:

I was looking for a set of wheels for my bike, but found it was cheaper to just get a complete vintage bike instead.

Click to expand...

Sounds like something we tell our wife's!

Click to expand...

Most wivies/GF's ive seen get the rubbish bike :?

Him- Carbon affair sus and discs.
She gets- £89.99 Apollo special

Re:

read this somewhere the other day...

"My biggest fear is after I die, my wife sells all my parts for what I told her I paid for them..."

:cry:

Let us know how you get/got on please.

Sure thing...

I say powdercoat...but it just might be too pricy for now....not sure yet...sigh.

The trouble with using the bolt as a drift is you've a pretty decent change of bending it, if the quill is properly stuck.

The most success I've had in the past is as follows:

1. Remove the bolt completely
2. Remove the stem, leaving the stuck quill in the fork
3. Turn the bike/forks upside down
4. Apply plusgas/wd40/freeze&release liberally
5. Find yourself a suitable drift - I tend to use a long socket wrench extension with a 13mm deep socket on the end, but if you have a flat ended steel bar or pipe, that will do
6. Feed the drift down the steerer tube (i.e. from inbetween the fork legs) and hold it nice and central on the stuck quill
7. Engage percussive maintenance mode (hit it. repeatedly)

This method puts a lot less stress on components that can't really take it, plus because the bottom of the quill is flat, all the force you're applying is going in the right direction and not damaging any surfaces that matter.