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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 11:13 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Mon May 08, 2006 2:35 pm
Posts: 78
i have an old 1992 diamondback apex frame that i have spent a few weeks stripping the paint off removing rust removing various brazed on parts etc. finallly i came to remove the bottom bracket

looked on park site after it wouldnt budge - used there method with a skewer to hold the tool in and turn the frame in a vice

i got one side out - the one that slips over the bearing

but the otherside wouldnt move untill all the splines sheered off the bb

the tool is fine but now it spins around and is usless

is there any way of removing this bb

people rarly reply to my posts but plese plese help


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 11:20 am 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
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Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2005 7:45 pm
Posts: 10944
Location: kent
so it is the drivetrain side which doesnt move . if the tool is fine , it is the bb shell which is damaged and that is not a good news .

brute force with a drill maybe ?


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 Post subject: bb
PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 11:27 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Mon May 08, 2006 2:35 pm
Posts: 78
yeah the bb is nackered now

the frame was only a fiver but im just anoyed at the time ive put in - lesson - remove bb first!

i might just bin it

or if any one wants it there happy to come and get it


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 11:30 am 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
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Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2005 7:45 pm
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Location: kent
use a drill to drill it out .

you can then purchase a bottom bracket which does not neeed threads .


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 12:04 pm 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2005 1:10 am
Posts: 4473
Location: Bristol
Last Ditch Solution ( that I have used ).
Go here, walk away and DON'T watch. It'll cost you about £25 and yes your True Temper TT Lite Colombus tubed frame IS worth it.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 1:12 pm 
BoTM Winner
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Joined: Sun Oct 23, 2005 7:22 pm
Posts: 742
Location: Wooster, Ohio
Not intending to be a smart ass, but are you turning the drivetrain side bb the correct direction? It is reverse threaded, meaning you need to turn it clockwise to loosen.

Given that you have it moving the correct way, go to the local hardware and buy the largest steel (not chrome/zinc/or plated in any other fashion) nut that will fit inside the previously splined area but over the spindle. Find a guy with a Mig welder to spot weld the nut in place to the bb in four areas. Then liberally soak the bb with spray lubricant, applying numerous times in a 24 hour period, spraying from both sides of the frame. A product like Liquid Wrench works well.

After the soaking, place the nut, turn that bb out.

The combination of the heat from welding and the liquid penetrant will be very effective in loosening the bb.

Good luck,

rody


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 1:14 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sun May 14, 2006 5:38 pm
Posts: 936
Location: Sussex
You are turning the cup in the right direction?

:wink:

Non-drive side is standard thread but drive side is LH thread.

Please forgive me but some do not know this!

:)


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 1:17 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sun May 14, 2006 5:38 pm
Posts: 936
Location: Sussex
Rody just beat me to it! A good suggestion re the welder too. Failing that a Dremel with small grinding wheel and careful use may get you somewhere ...


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 Post subject: bb
PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 1:20 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Mon May 08, 2006 2:35 pm
Posts: 78
i tried turning it both ways - as i knew which way it was meant to go but get all mixed up when its in the vice

- im not sure which side is out but the one thats stuck in is the one thats the whole unit

- the one thats come out is the cup on its own.

the one stuck in is totaly knackered - as in the splined bit is shredded and wont grip the tool at all

the welding idea sounds good - can you clarify what i need to weld - remembering that the axle is still stuck in the frame


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 Post subject: bb
PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 1:25 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Mon May 08, 2006 2:35 pm
Posts: 78
i kind of see what you are getting at - a point i might need to make is the shredded part of the bb is aluminium

i presume this ruins the nut welding theory?


i think my frame might be a pre true-temper axis so im not sure its worth all the fuss

i just wanted a nice powdercoated steel frame for single speed
and this was a fiver on ebay


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