Nuke Proof Reactor - hard tail build help really needed!

So a good few months ago now it seems, I won a Nuke Proof Reactor frame on eBay. Having done some research before pulling the trigger, and having wanted one since I saw Jago's build thread on here (having never seen nor heard of one before then), I was pretty pleased to say the least when I came across one and that it ended up in my possession.

I went into the purchase with my eyes open, and to the best of my knowledge all I'd need would be a shock for the front end, and the braces for the forks/linkages. The latter I knew I would probably have to get made, so was ready for that.

However, the frame arrived yesterday morning just as I was on my way out, so whilst excited, I had to wait until the evening before I could get the box open and see what was inside. That was when my excitement faded a little and I now know I have a lot more work on my hands than I had planned, or the eBay auction eluded to (or answers to my questions indicated).

Issue 1 - seat post damage
Due to the frame being poorly packaged and with no protection at all for any areas that could suffer damage in transit such as rear drop outs, head and seat tube extremities etc, I guess I was lucky that the only damage suffered to the frame was that the seat tube top has been squashed a bit and is now ovalised.



Issue 2 - Fork braces
As mentioned, I knew that I would need to source these somehow. As luck would have it, a very helpful member on here has been in touch and is making some for his own project, so hopefully I can get in on that action and have a set made as well.

Issue 3 - No bearings whatsoever
Now this really is a pain, as without any fixtures and fittings, I have no way of easily sourcing the parts I'd need. Apparently the lower headset bearing is impossible to get, so am I already screwed before I start? Does anyone know of a bearing supplier who might be able to help with a very odd and unusual sized bearing (as yet unknown information, but hoping to get). Bearing fixtures and fittings (bolts, bushings etc) are also going to be on the wanted list once I know what I need, so again, any suppliers known that can provide this kind of thing?

BB shell tapped on one side only
No idea if this has been done well or not, but I will of course need to get the other side done if I am to give me more choice on BB and crankset. Anyone know a friendly bike shop in or around the Epsom area that can do this? Fudge cycles can't, and say only a frame builder would be able to do it. I seem to recall this kind of thing being done by my LBS back in the day, but I guess there is no real demand for this type of service in today's society of planned obsolescence.


No bottle bosses, just holes
Another unexpected surprise that I need to deal with on both down and seat tube. Fudge Cycles again can't even do this, so looking for someone who can.


Seat tube repair
Should this be something I leave to a professional, or give it a go myself? I've opened a case with eBay about this and the other missing bits that the description hinted at being included, but just trying to plan ahead.

Head tube bolt hole?
There appears to be what I imagine is a hole to allow access to the front shock mounting bolts. However, the inner sheath would appear to block this, so am I missing something? Should a hole be added to the inner sheath for the head tube or is the hole for a use I simply can't see?

Is it all there despite the above?
As I have no experience at all wit this frame, I am still not 100% sure it is all there. It looks as though the seller wasn't either, as included in the box of bits was what I can only assume was the CNC BB bridge from the rear suspended version?


OK, now that is the negative/issues over, now on to the more exciting stuff. Assuming the above can be overcome, how on earth should I build this up? I was thinking M952 most of the way, with perhaps some black cranks, but then as a lot of the head tube end is silver, should I try and build this up in a more silver friendly way, with M739 (aside from the cranks) and some silver finishing kit?

Wheel wise I had contemplated getting out the old Nuke Proof hubs I bought years ago, and getting them built up, but if I went into black finishing kit mode, I was thinking a completely not period correct set of Spinery Xyclone wheels with black rims/hubs and yellow spokes?

Decisions, decisions, but before I get to it, I need to work out if it can actually be done (by me at ay rate).

Re:

I'm sure somebody will sort them easily enough but if nobody will cut your threads you could try BETD (gold tech), they can fit a steel threaded helicoil for not a lot of money. It is an invisible and practical solution.
The rivets are an easy one, most better shops should have a rivnut tool. If you are struggling I can send you a couple of rivets, they can actually be fitted to your frame using only a long bolt and a couple of nuts.
If you do not want to manipulate the seat tube and damage the paint, an easy solution would be to fit a USE type shim with the slot backwards then tease a post into it, I recon you could wrestle it back open without damage though. I have used an adjustable reamer in the past, slowly winding it tighter until the tube comes straight (not cutting it, just leaving it still and letting the expansion open the tube).I did it with an uber thin walled steel frame, not sure how aluminium would take to this What size seat post does it take?
As for the rest I have no idea!
Good luck

Re:

Give danson67 a pm he is the fornt of all frame knowledge and weird forks/sus frames

Did you read my reply in the other thread: "1997 Nuke Proof Reactor hardtail"?
I'm too lazy to re-post....
The front end parts appear to be all there. The stepped down tube all the way to the left is NOT a part of the assembly (seems like a spare, unused headtube for the frame).
The steering tube assembly seems to have the threaded inserts welded on so when you put it inside the headtube and turn it with the tab towards the back you should have the hole in the frame and the hole in the headtube line up. There's no inner sleeve over those. I don't see from the angle of your pic if there's a hole on your steering tube assembly but there should be one. The upper headset bearing is a standard Cannondale 1 1/2" bearing, cheap and plentiful available. The lower bearing however, now that's the big issue.
I did months of research and I only found one manufacturer of a thin section angular contact bearing in the dimensions: 73mmOD x 58.6mmID x 7mm thick. The manufacturer is Timken and their chassis number for this size bearing is: 3746. So the bearing would be called something like: S3746ZZ, or C3746ZZ, or S3746ME depending of the types of seals I think. I couldn't find any distributor, so I have no idea what's the cost on those but I've seen thin section angular contact bearings go for horrendous prices (500$ plus) due to the odd sizes and low manufacturing numbers. Shoot me a PM if you have additional questions, I'm sure we can sort the bearing situation out.

Take it to an experianced frame builder.
A bike shop would never have to tap a thread in a frame, they'll never have done it before and will probably mess it up. Check the other sides the correct thread too.
While your there ask them about the missing bottle cage mounts and seattube too.

Re:

All of your problems can be fixed , wish i lived nearer so i could help ( i'am in Bournemouth ) , Simply bearings or bearing boys for you bearings , the BB drive side or none drive side Left hand thread or Right hand thread ? Find a local machine shop ( a friendly one ) to make a tapered drift for the seat tube , love that frame and the design of the front end of that frame ( i have £5 ) :mrgreen: .Good luck with it and hope you solve the problems .

syncrosfan":1tmcgzpa said:

Did you read my reply in the other thread: "1997 Nuke Proof Reactor hardtail"?
I'm too lazy to re-post....
The front end parts appear to be all there. The stepped down tube all the way to the left is NOT a part of the assembly (seems like a spare, unused headtube for the frame).
The steering tube assembly seems to have the threaded inserts welded on so when you put it inside the headtube and turn it with the tab towards the back you should have the hole in the frame and the hole in the headtube line up. There's no inner sleeve over those. I don't see from the angle of your pic if there's a hole on your steering tube assembly but there should be one. The upper headset bearing is a standard Cannondale 1 1/2" bearing, cheap and plentiful available. The lower bearing however, now that's the big issue.
I did months of research and I only found one manufacturer of a thin section angular contact bearing in the dimensions: 73mmOD x 58.6mmID x 7mm thick. The manufacturer is Timken and their chassis number for this size bearing is: 3746. So the bearing would be called something like: S3746ZZ, or C3746ZZ, or S3746ME depending of the types of seals I think. I couldn't find any distributor, so I have no idea what's the cost on those but I've seen thin section angular contact bearings go for horrendous prices (500$ plus) due to the odd sizes and low manufacturing numbers. Shoot me a PM if you have additional questions, I'm sure we can sort the bearing situation out.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply on here and the other thread. I've read them both, just been busy with other stuff and not had time to reply until now.

You are absolutely right about the head tube part, it is indeed a spare frame part it seems. The frame does have a hole in it for access to the suspension mount bolt, so that's all good at least.

Good to know that at least one of the bearings is easy enough to get hold of. Sounds like the bearings for the linkages are going to be ok too, so just need to figure out the size needed, and also get hold of the correct bolts and washers/shims/bushings etc. I don't suppose you happen to know what they might be do you?

I've spent quite an amount of time looking for the lower headset bearing online and have not found anything for sale as yet, so I'm thinking that this could be the biggest stumbling block. I do have a possible way in to the bearing industry that I am exploring, but who knows if it will yield anything useful.

I'm certainly interested in any help I can get in getting this back up and running. Having raised a case on eBay with the seller, I could be betting some form of compensation or sending the frame back for another one (large size, or at least that is what I think I bought, how can I tell for sure?). Whatever way that goes, I still want to get the fork braces and any other parts I can together in the hope that I can source the difficult bearing and get it all together.

One thing I do find odd about the frame is that so much work has gone in to the front suspension design, that the rear is very unspectacular in comparison, even the drop out joints are dull as you like.

Another thing ive noticed is that it has no serial. Whilst I'm not surprised, I would like to get this insured at some point but without this kind of identifying feature, aside from its rarity, how do you prove ownership?

Rampage":2wegpr7b said:

Take it to an experianced frame builder.
A bike shop would never have to tap a thread in a frame, they'll never have done it before and will probably mess it up. Check the other sides the correct thread too.
While your there ask them about the missing bottle cage mounts and seattube too.

Click to expand...

Cheers, looks like the way to go I think. I was going to get in touch about the viability of having the fork braces made up, but syncrosfan may be able to help out here. If not, is it something you could do? If so, what would you need?

Re: Re:

royboy2cv":20uulo0d said:

All of your problems can be fixed , wish i lived nearer so i could help ( i'am in Bournemouth ) , Simply bearings or bearing boys for you bearings , the BB drive side or none drive side Left hand thread or Right hand thread ? Find a local machine shop ( a friendly one ) to make a tapered drift for the seat tube , love that frame and the design of the front end of that frame ( i have £5 ) :mrgreen: .Good luck with it and hope you solve the problems .

Click to expand...

Sadly none of the bearing suppliers you've mention list the earring need as a stock item. I guess it can't hurt to ask if the guy can get one though.

It seems I have a spare head tube for the frame, no idea what it though. I can't see it being much use for anything, though may use it to play with whilst I figure out the bearing situation.

Re:

I take then the bearing sizes are imperial ? with the problem your having ?