I said I would write one and I am having to do again as I lost it.
Spoke tension gauge I find the ear method difficult with some spoke like thing Sapim Laser's (a small change in tension produce a large change in pitch). The Park TM-1 is all the DIY builder will need. IT cost about £60.
A jig of some kind. Your frame will do
A dishing stick but again a rule on your frame will do.
Nipple driver - it make life easier but is not essential.
I am not one who believe that will do. The correct tools for the job just help you do a better job quicker. Home made versions of these tools can do the job well but only if you do it right.
Home made jigs have been covered before and as I do not use one and never have I will not go there. To me building your own wheels is not about doing it as cheaply as possible but about doing it yourself and the sense of satisfaction you get. To this end I will start at the begining.
You need two spokes cut to 200mm and screw on nipples until the *bottom* nipple driver flats are flush with the top of the spoke. Place the spokes in the rim at opposite ends of the rim. Measure the distance between the ends of the spokes and add 400mm.
The two rims I am using are the Mavic XM717 ERD 541mm and XM117 ERD 543mm.
Measuring the hub
The hubs picked are M732 rear 135mm OLD (over lock nut distance) and M730 front.
A hub has 5 important dimensions
1) left flange PCD
2) right flange PCD
3) centre left flange to centre of hub
4) centre of right flange to centre of hub
5) spoke hole diameter
Centre of hub is the mid-point between the locknuts.
PCD is the distance between the centre's of the spoke hole of two opposing holes.
Using a vernier measure form the inside of the drive side (DS) flange to the lock nut. This is D1
Measure the thickness of the flange, this is D2.
Centre of flange to centre of hub = (OLD/2)-(D1-(D2/2))
Measure from the inside of the non drive side (NDS) flange to the centre of the hub and repeat the calculation.
Some manufacturers quote the flange to centre measurements from the inside of the flange or the outside. This messes with the bracing angle calculation which is a critical part of good rim, spoke and spoke count selection.
For the hubs I am using
left/right flange PCD = 37.5mm
left/right centre of flange to centre of hub =35mm
spoke hole diameter 2.6mm
left/right flange PCD = 45mm
right centre of flange to centre of hub =24mm
left centre of flange to centre of hub =37mm
spoke hole diameter 2.6mm
The rear hub is perfect as it give high bracing angle which a stiff wheel. It also means I can use thin Sapim Lasers and still have a stiff wheel.
Calculating spoke lengths.
This is what I use - it simply works well.http://sheldonbrown.com/rinard/spocalc.htm
Front rim XM117 and rear rim XM717.
Front spoke lengths 265.9mm DS rear 262.5mm and NDS rear 264mm. Always round down by 1mm especially with thin spokes. So I have selected 265mm for the front, 263mm NDS rear and 261mm DS rear. Spocalc is the best spoc calculator so why use anything else.
Also do not trust any manufacturers data, I have often found it to be wrong. In general trust your own measurements only and buy the spoke you think you need not the spokes some one else thinks you need. If you get the retailer to work out the lengths you need you are missing out on half the build process.
ALAN Competitizone 1980-1981, Traitor Exile, Pinarello Monvisio, Trek 2300 (the one with the carbon tubes), Scott Pro Racing, Vitus 992, Kinesis FF29, Sannino, Trek 8900, Genesis Equilibrium Ti Disc, Gary Fisher Ferrous single speed, 1948 raleigh record ace project, Klein Quantum, Ceilo Rosso TT bike, 1962 dawes unknown model.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk