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PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 12:44 pm 
Newbie

Joined: Wed Oct 02, 2013 10:26 pm
Posts: 8
Chill-pill's.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 6:53 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Fri Jun 14, 2013 12:02 am
Posts: 683
Location: Canada
Cantilever not returning could be spring tension, corrosion, broken pieces/mis-placed spring, or the dreaded post bulge from over-tightening the mounting bolt.

Locking the rear wheel is not a sign of a well adjusted brake. Sure it gives the impression of lots of power but usually this is the result of a mis-matched lever to brake system. You want a brake you can hammer on and slow you down fast. Remember locking the wheel is not an effective way to stop though it is satisfying to be able to do it. A brake should have good modulation and you should be able to have a range of effective braking as you pull the lever in. If the throw is short and the brake locks quickly, that is a poorly adjusted brake.

Hangers are pure fashion. The original mafac/dia-compe ones work just fine. The shimano safety ones also work great when paired with the right cantilever and make adjustment straight forward.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 7:10 pm 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2013 6:26 pm
Posts: 16937
Location: 54 Festive Road Winchcombe GLOUCS Yarp...
Cheap and good for offline adjustment to get even return. And available on here!


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 10:00 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Thu Sep 01, 2011 5:11 pm
Posts: 1043
Location: Left Coast of Canada
cyclotoine wrote:
Cantilever not returning could be spring tension, corrosion, broken pieces/mis-placed spring, or the dreaded post bulge from over-tightening the mounting bolt.

Locking the rear wheel is not a sign of a well adjusted brake. Sure it gives the impression of lots of power but usually this is the result of a mis-matched lever to brake system. You want a brake you can hammer on and slow you down fast. Remember locking the wheel is not an effective way to stop though it is satisfying to be able to do it. A brake should have good modulation and you should be able to have a range of effective braking as you pull the lever in. If the throw is short and the brake locks quickly, that is a poorly adjusted brake.

Hangers are pure fashion. The original mafac/dia-compe ones work just fine. The shimano safety ones also work great when paired with the right cantilever and make adjustment straight forward.


Thanks for the info. I equate the level of power of a braking system with the ability to lock a wheel up in an emergency stopping situation. It is very clear on this bike comparing the front and rear braking that there is less power in the rear brake.

You guys have given me lots of things to look at to troubleshoot the rear brake.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 10:33 pm 
Retro Guru
Retro Guru
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Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2008 4:37 pm
Posts: 5198
Location: North West
cyclotoine wrote:
Hangers are pure fashion.


I am sure I read somewhere that a wide hanger helps the 'angles' ?

I prefer the type you can clamp onto the cables - makes centralising stuff easier and longer lasting :D

WD :D


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 2:44 pm 
gold | rider | rBoTM
gold | rider | rBoTM
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Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2013 5:06 pm
Posts: 10269
Location: The deep South
I got a pair of hangers that History Man has illustrated . They look good , but am unsure of them after a bad expeience . See my ' 93 Scott Team Racing is reborn' build , page 6 . Will stick to Shimano ones as they work well , even if they look pants . My Ritchey cantis don't have spring adjustment screws , you just experiment with holes in frame/forks to get them even .
Mike


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 3:34 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Wed Aug 07, 2013 7:24 pm
Posts: 303
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
I had the occasional issue with Tridangles and other grub-screw style hangers BITD too. There were 2 common modes of failure in the cable clamping: Either the grubs would be too loose, and the cable pulled thru under hard brake application, or the grubs were over tightened, resulting in a cable break at the top screw.

I took to a differential tightening regime for those 2 critical grubs. The top one I did up firmly, but not overly-tight. Enough that I couldn't pull thru the cable with the lever, but no more.. The bottom one was done up tight, just shy of "damage the cable" tight. Never had another one move on me after that, either on my own ride or a customer's.

As with so many things bicycle, it's a matter of getting a handle on just what "just right tight" is. Any grub screw hanger can suffer this fault.

J


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 4:59 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Fri Jun 14, 2013 12:02 am
Posts: 683
Location: Canada
WD Pro wrote:
cyclotoine wrote:
Hangers are pure fashion.


I am sure I read somewhere that a wide hanger helps the 'angles' ?

I prefer the type you can clamp onto the cables - makes centralising stuff easier and longer lasting :D

WD :D


I agree to disagree.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 8:12 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Thu Sep 01, 2011 5:11 pm
Posts: 1043
Location: Left Coast of Canada
purple chill pills or tridangle style would look great on my bike.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 12:58 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 12:14 am
Posts: 1321
Location: Sunny? Devon
I always liked these, but then I am biased as I designed and made them :P


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