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PostPosted: Sun Sep 08, 2013 5:55 pm 
Devout Dirtbag

Joined: Fri Jun 14, 2013 9:18 pm
Posts: 116
Just begun as strip down of a '90 marin bear valley that I'm rebuilding for the wife. Got it for a snip off the bay but it's a bit of a wreck. So I thought I'd get it stripped down and give the local powder coaters a try since.... Well they're local and all.

All was going swimmingly until the stem removal. It's the original marin roller quill stem and the bike has a 1" steerer but it's rusted in solid. I've tried to free it with force and soaked it in WD40 from the top and bottom over the last couple of days but it won't budge.

All of the advice on the net covers Alu stems in steel steerers so I thought you knowledgeable people might be able to help since this is steel in steel. As yet I haven't been able to get the quill wedge out, that's tonight's job.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 08, 2013 6:25 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2008 8:44 pm
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Location: Wherever it is, I'm being just that little bit more Lance
WD40 is useless for this job, it's for Water Displacement, what you need is a penetrating oil like Plusgas. Soak it with that. If the wedge is jammed then tap it out through the bottom of the fork with a hammer, I use the bolt. Usually sticking a wheel in the forks and holding it between your knees and working the bars will eventually get them out.

Swearing also helps the process go better.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 10:44 am 
Devout Dirtbag

Joined: Fri Jun 14, 2013 9:18 pm
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Thanks Tad

I've already tried swearing so I ordered some plus gas this morning.

Wedge is still stuck though.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 11:06 am 
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Location: East Lothian
Can you get the stem out but not the wedge? On my Marin forks / Stem, the wedge was in fact Alloy.

I removed the Stem then replaced the bolt in the wedge, sprayed penetrating oil down the steerer then several sharp taps of the hammer using a wooden block to protect the bolt, out it came


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 1:53 pm 
Devout Dirtbag

Joined: Fri Jun 14, 2013 9:18 pm
Posts: 116
Nope, can't get either out. I think the wedge does move though. Was trying last night in the dark so difficult to tell.

Trying again tonight with the wedge. Waiting for plusgas to give the stem another go


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 1:55 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 11:09 am
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Location: Devon
Soak it a few times a day for a week before giving it a go. That'll help.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 6:48 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2008 8:44 pm
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Location: Wherever it is, I'm being just that little bit more Lance
Korszun wrote:
I've already tried swearing


Try doing it louder and using stronger words. Repeatedly calling it a %$£""!£"&*(!!! should see it eased out.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 12:01 am 
Devout Dirtbag

Joined: Fri Jun 14, 2013 9:18 pm
Posts: 116
Okay, wedge is free but still in steerer tube. Tried to tap it out the bottom but it appears the ID of the steerer tube is corroded/covered in crud enough such that it fouls the wedge when I try to push it out.

Still waiting to test out plusgas' magical powers


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 10:20 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2011 10:45 pm
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If you can plug the bolt hole or tape a builders bag round the steerer .turn the whole lot upside down and fill with diesel it will work after a week .I had to do it on a grifter
then if you can find a long lump of wood to fit snuggly into top of forks where the wheel goes you can crack the rust .there's a video of someone doing this on a grifter on you tube


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 12, 2013 7:00 am 
Devout Dirtbag

Joined: Fri Jun 14, 2013 9:18 pm
Posts: 116
No need. Plusgas did the job.

Have read many positive reports on here of soaking it overnight or for a couple of days but the instructions on the can say try to move the siezed parts after a few minutes so I thought why not! I was amazed when it budged first try.

Another recommendation for plusgas from me, the stuff is amazing.


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