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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 3:59 pm 
BoTM Winner / retrobike rider
BoTM Winner / retrobike rider
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Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2008 8:24 pm
Posts: 5667
Location: Dorset
I run 1x9 on my rock lobster and have been through the issues you're asking about.
I went for a single speed Hope chain-ring but was still loosing my chain on really bumpy stuff (it's rigid too) so started looking at chain devices.
When I saw the prices, I just fitted an old front mech and fixed it in the desired position using the stop screw.
A bit gypo, but it works a treat :D


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 4:33 pm 
Devout Dirtbag

Joined: Tue Jun 04, 2013 11:52 am
Posts: 149
I stripped my MTRAX from 3x8 to 1x8 simply by ditching two chainrings and a front mech.

Whether or not you need a chain guide probably depends on your setup and how much the chain skipped before. I never thought the mech was doing much chain guiding when it was 3x8 so didn't add anything new to do the job.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 6:14 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 11:25 pm
Posts: 1785
Location: It's not easy being a dolphin.
Unless you are using a bash ring on the outer position, you will need shorter chain ring bolts, or hacksaw / file your existing ones
down by about 3mm.

You could remove a couple of links from the chain for a bit more tension if you felt the need. I would recommend a specific chain ring
without ramps and pins and normal teeth - but it's not completely necessary. As for 32T, 34, 36T or whatever just depends on your riding
and if you want to loose all or some of the bottom or top-end gears.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 8:24 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2008 8:44 pm
Posts: 3584
Location: Wherever it is, I'm being just that little bit more Lance
makster wrote:
I just fitted an old front mech and fixed it in the desired position using the stop screw.
A bit gypo, but it works a treat :D


+1 for this, it's what I did and works a treat.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 8:31 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2011 4:15 pm
Posts: 3499
Location: Behind you with the duct tape pulled out.
I found going to a full tooth front ring made a world of difference. Both my bikes are running 1x set ups. Full tooth rings up front on both.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 10:30 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Wed Apr 06, 2011 1:09 am
Posts: 986
Location: Ecosse
I was looking at a set of triple compact RaceFace race rings being shipped from Canada and baulked at the price TBH (even 'tho a very reasonable price) and have ordered Z1 forks for the Hammer so thinking it's gonna be a *trailcentre* style bike so can afford to drop the 2 fronts.

Gonna go for this folks - thank you all for the instilled confidence!


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 11:51 pm 
East Midlands Deputy AEC
East Midlands Deputy AEC
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Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2008 9:39 pm
Posts: 2027
Location: Ashby-de-la-Zouch
Tad wrote:
makster wrote:
I just fitted an old front mech and fixed it in the desired position using the stop screw.
A bit gypo, but it works a treat :D


+1 for this, it's what I did and works a treat.


Me too. :)


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 12:42 am 
National & North West AEC
National & North West AEC
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Joined: Mon Nov 03, 2008 12:43 am
Posts: 8146
Location: Macclesfield Forest
I have a 1x8 set up on my 1996 Stumpjumper.
Having ridden similar set ups without a guide, and losing my chain on rocky sections, I decided to fit a modified Superstar Components chain guide to this one. I've also used an old front mech on other bikes before, but the plastic guide is more effective, lighter weight and a lot quieter.

Image

I also use the same type of guide on a modern 1x9 hardtail, although that one is a BB mounted type.

I really like the simplicity of a single ring set up. When matched up to a wide ratio 11-32 or 11-34 cassette I find them perfect for riding in the Peak District. They are especially good on commuters and winter bikes as the drivetrain is much easier to keep clean.


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