Tech questions - freehub replacement

After my last ride I found the reason for a recent drop off in gear shifting performance, there is now huge play in the free hub. The play is in the same axis as if you had loose wheel bearings. So as not to make a schoolboy error, I checked the wheel bearings and cassette lock ring just in case, but all is well there.

The wheel is a nice period one with a Mavic rim, probably whatever was OEM for a Kona Stinky that my mate Baldy upgraded to disks from day 1, discarding the original wheels in the process.

I didn't even realise that the free hub could be seperated from the hub but I have had a quick look on the web and have found a helpful instructional on You Tube.

My questions are:

• Are there any pitfalls finding a replacement part? It is a 7 speed and takes a standard Shimano unthreaded cassette, I will have to find out the name and type of hub.
  During the replacement are there any issues likely to catch me out? I have changed spokes, trued wheels, cleaned bearings and replaced cassettes in the past, I would rate myself as a 6/10 intermediate bike mechanic.

Hi, i would start by stripping out what you have already. This way you can see what you need and examine health of it all.

17MM and an adjustable spanner will get your lock nuts off, then lay it all out as it comes of. Even better, try removing locknut, spacers and cone from non-drive side only. then, slide rest out of drive side. This way, the exposed axle that sits in frame dropouts will remain exact, in this case a 15/16mm cone spanner and 17mm ordinary spanner will do. A beefy 10mm allen key will remove FHB. they are on tight so attach some kind of lever over allen key or stamp on it, thats just me though

Pit falls.

Remove grease guards carefully, they buckle easily and a pain to re-install when butchered up and, can interfere with bearings if badly warped.

Take note if there is a spacer behind old freehub body, sometimes stuck to main hub shell with grease and filth. Normally just refit it, it pushes cassette away from spokes.

When removing axle, be careful of dry bearings bouncing all over the place, assuming you are putting the same ones back! work near floor or bench.

The whole process, i'm sure you will just suss it out. Once all is back to square one and you are tightning non-drive cone and locknut....try leave the axle with a teeny bit of play then, use locknuts either side to take up that last bit of play, it's very stiff but possible with two 17mm's or 17 and adjustable.

Crack on with it, any issues, post back up and we can guide you from there.

Thanks, that's pretty much what the guy in the video said. He used a magnet to pull all the bearings out of the grease the sly dog.

OK, it was easy getting it apart, now to find the replacement re-assemble and test before next weekend's big ride. Some great instructions here too BTW http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/w ... hub-23757/

Job completed, ahead of schedule and on budget for a change. I sourced a replacement part on eBay, it was cheaper to buy the whole hub and strip out the parts I needed. They had plenty more in stock BTW, under £20 delivered, I will post a link if anyone is vaguely interested.
I took the opportunity to bung in fresh bearings, cones and axle at the same time. It certainly is running more freely and making a lot less noise now and I'm looking forward to the first test flight.
Thanks for the advice and the time it takes to share the knowledge, it is much appreciated.

I often buy whole hubs to rob-out myself. LX565-585-stx-rc etc are all good for most 8/9speed setups. As for 7 speed, shimano RSX are good for exage, LX550 and deore/deore 2.

brucie bonus is that you get chance to rob the cones and bearings too, which are bound to be worn on the existing hub. Sometimes the spacers and nuts have to be cobbled together, but a worthwhile compromise.

Glad you are up and running!