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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 10:36 pm 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2013 6:26 pm
Posts: 16962
Location: 54 Festive Road Winchcombe GLOUCS Yarp...
if you rubbed down a previously painted brightly coloured frame would the new paint have a decent enough key or best to start from scratch with primer etc and 'uncured' new paint?


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 10:44 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2008 4:37 pm
Posts: 5198
Location: North West
I think the reason for the patchy (cool) finish is because of the lumpiness of the hand painting being exposed when the top coat is sanded back - you wouldnt get this doing it over an OE (i.e. smooth) finish :-(

WD :D


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 10:46 pm 
Old School Hero

Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2011 5:01 pm
Posts: 226
Location: Not far from my hat
I used to hand brush frames and the occasional car as a kid.
We used to warm the paint and the brush marks would disappear during drying.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 11:00 pm 
National & North West AEC
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Joined: Mon Nov 03, 2008 12:43 am
Posts: 8146
Location: Macclesfield Forest
I've heard about the paint warming trick. A friend of mine did all his internal doors with regular brushed on gloss paint. They have a flawless finish.

As to the frame, I really like the effect you've achieved. Kinda got a punk ethic to it.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 11:13 pm 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
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Location: 54 Festive Road Winchcombe GLOUCS Yarp...
WD Pro wrote:
I think the reason for the patchy (cool) finish is because of the lumpiness of the hand painting being exposed when the top coat is sanded back - you wouldnt get this doing it over an OE (i.e. smooth) finish :-(

WD :D


:facepalm: silly me.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 11:44 pm 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2013 4:43 am
Posts: 16
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Just curious... I was looking at Tremclad rust paints today, and they say on the can that primer is not necessary for most applications. Why the three coats of primer? Was it really necessary?
Anybody care to weigh in?

I took a closer look at the bike I'll be working with and I'm lean toward just re-touching after rust removal.

And thanks for the warming paint tip, Joss.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 11:46 pm 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2013 6:26 pm
Posts: 16962
Location: 54 Festive Road Winchcombe GLOUCS Yarp...
Is this like hammerite (uk)? If so says the same but better with primer I've found.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 12:27 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2012 4:31 am
Posts: 63
Location: Toronto
The black paint I used was water based. It said on the can to use primer on bare metal. I think Tremclad's oil based paints does not require primer. I just used paint I already happened to have.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 8:42 pm 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2013 4:43 am
Posts: 16
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Bone Machine wrote:
The black paint I used was water based. It said on the can to use primer on bare metal. I think Tremclad's oil based paints does not require primer. I just used paint I already happened to have.


Cool - thanks. Think I was looking at the oil-based, and it says "for metal surfaces only."
Sorry, History Man... not really sure. I think Bone and I are in Canada, eh? :D


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 2:20 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2012 4:31 am
Posts: 63
Location: Toronto
Here it is built up:

Image

Image

Image


I'm very pleased at how it turned out. I think History Man's idea of yellow over black would look really nice. I may try multiple colours next time. One thing is for sure - no two bikes will ever look exactly alike.


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