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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 12:33 pm 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
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Location: 54 Festive Road Winchcombe GLOUCS Yarp...
Thanks guys. Sorted of a fashion. See viewtopic.php?f=6&t=265047


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 1:57 pm 
B.o.T.M. Winner / Feature Bike
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Location: Tilting at windmills and shouting at the rain.
Chopper1192 wrote:
Incorrect. Mine bite fully at about 1/3 of their travel.


But you are talking about your mech discs not v-brakes. You can set up discs far closer to the pad as a disc is rarely out of true by the same amount as a rim and when riding it doesn't experience the same level of flex that causes drag on the pads.

No amount of skill will ever make a canti brake lever pulling a V-brake feel anything more than nasty, but even the most ham-fisted Halfords mechanic could get a mech disc to work with a standard lever (the number of CX and touring bikes with that set up is testament to that fact).


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 2:46 pm 
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What would be interesting is to see the difference between BB7 mtn and BB7 road disc brakes. The former are v lever specific and the latter road/canti lever specific.

I suspect it's something like a little cam that changes the pull characteristics. I also suspect the cable discs are inherently less sensitive to cable pull differences due to the points outlined above plus the different nature of their pivot mechanisms. The original hope mechanicals were designed for canti levers but alledgedly worked fraction better with V levers.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 5:46 pm 
B.o.T.M. Winner / Feature Bike
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Location: Tilting at windmills and shouting at the rain.
secret_squirrel wrote:
What would be interesting is to see the difference between BB7 mtn and BB7 road disc brakes. The former are v lever specific and the latter road/canti lever specific.


In which case I take it all back about any hamfisted halfords mechanic and replace that with some hamfisted halfords mechanics could mate them together.

That said, even if a wheel was true to within +/- 1mm the v brake pad would have to be toed to avoid squeal so the rear of the pad would be 1mm further out than the front so the minimum total movement would be 4mm (1mm either side + 1mm toe in either side). On a disc there is no need to toe in so the minimum would be 2mm. So thats twice the pull from the start.
My point is you have to be far more accurate to get a v working with the wrong brake lever than a disc, any disc.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 6:02 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 29, 2011 12:42 pm
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I'll just throw my 2p in on this one. I had some Tektro Mini V brakes on my "Bitsa" road bike and they worked just fine with Tektro road levers. The only tricky bit was adjustment, but that was sorted with some adjustable Noodles.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 6:06 pm 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
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Supernoodles!


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 10:44 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 28, 2010 1:41 pm
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Location: Worcestershire
I'm glad someone posted this thread, I have been considering the idea of a 'Franken bike' as a commuter with a jumble of parts for a while and also wanted to fit 'dirt drops' probably the on-one midge bars as they are well priced.

How does the set up work with the thumbshifters on top and how does the brake operate, does it have enough pull?

Thanks guys.


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