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PostPosted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 10:03 am 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 1:32 am
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Location: Worcestershire / West Midlands
FluffyChicken wrote:
Moving them back a little solved the problem for me.
I used to run them near the front, now they are about halfway. Can check.


If you don't mind then thanks. I'm curious as to how it helps though? I'd sort of assumed that your foot needs to be in a specific position on the pedal and shifting it back would alter that and maybe cause other problems.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 10:10 am 
retrobike rider
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I do not know exactly why, can only guess it some sort of stretching by twisting thing.

It was advice I was given on this forum some years back when it happened to me after I started riding again. Seemed to have worked so not moved them since other than to correct the angle.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 1:06 pm 
retrobike rider
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How much did you move them back, roughly? 1cm or so? And is this moving the cleat back to effectively move your foot forward, or moving the cleat forward to move your foot back? :)


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 5:57 pm 
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Generally, it is advised that your cleat position should set the ball of your foot (big toe joint) over the axle. Anything different to this tends to be, cleat further forward on the shoe suits higher cadences & moving the cleat backwards on the shoe is more suited to grinding.

I'd say you'll notice moving the cleats 5mm at a time.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 9:33 am 
retrobike rider
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I'd always assumed ball of foot over axle yes. So in this circustance, adjusting the cleat for extra crank length, any idea which way it would be? I'm guessing longer cranks tend not to be higher cadence so go for moving the cleat backwards?


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