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PostPosted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 10:20 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 10:54 am
Posts: 66
Currently trying to save an f2000 dale from being broken up for parts. When I got it, the headshok was completely compressed. The air valve underneath appears to have snapped off. It still moves freely up and down and isn't seized. I tried to screw a shock pump to the remains of the schrader valve and pumping caused it to push back down in to it's normal position but within seconds air hissed out (I guess due to the lack of valve?) This suggests to me that the fork is in working condition but the broken valve is the only problem?
Can the piece with the valve be changed? It's not just the core that is missing, the outer threaded piece of the schrader which the pump screws on to has sheared off. No shortage of inner tubes to rob for the threaded piece if there was some way to attach it to the fork? Would be a shame to have to split it because of such a small part....


Daz


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 10:27 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 10:54 am
Posts: 66
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 12:11 am 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2011 9:29 pm
Posts: 1770
Location: yorkshireland
Its not a hard job but you will need the right tool for the job. Deflate the fork first then Remove the lockout lever. With a pin spanner unscrew the top of the fork, you then compress the fork and theres a specific cannondale 4 pin tool that drops into the slots on the damper. The damper needs to be unscrewed and lifted out, then flip the fork and give the area around the air valve a technical tap with a small socket, this will push the aircan into the fork and expose a spring clip. Remove the clip and screw your shock pump onto the air valve and give it a pull (you may need to drop a clean bar inside the fork and knock the air can out from the inside. Next give it all a good clean slap a little suspension friendly grease down the hole then pop a new air can back in (when I used to fix these I think they cost about £28), refit the spring clip pop the damper back in, screw the top back down and stick the lockout lever back on then pump it back up and go out for a ride.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 12:16 am 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2011 9:29 pm
Posts: 1770
Location: yorkshireland
This is the tool you need


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 9:45 am 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 10:54 am
Posts: 66
Thanks for the advice. Where can I get myself a replacement air can? Will stick up a wanted add but might be easier if someone has them brand new? It's a 1997 fatty fork btw.

Daz


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 4:58 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 10:54 am
Posts: 66
Using nothing more than a pair of needle nose pliers and a watch case back opener to substitute for the castle tool and pin spanner, I have safely dismantled the fork. It was full of oil so I assume the seals are ok. There's no big elastomer, only an air chamber, 1 inch or so spring and oil dampner. Everything is like brand new inside, even the bearings are covered in clean grease. Can anyone help sourcing the replacement air valve part?


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