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PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 3:05 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2010 1:46 pm
Posts: 15
Location: north Texas
Any suggestions for working loose a stuck MC1 quill stem bolt? Normally I would invert the bike and pour a penetrant in from the underside of the steerer. Problem is this is likely to flow through the bearings and top seal removing lube and potentially effecting the integrity of the original rubber seal. Are these concern warranted and another method available? I assume the stem bolt may be titanium. Some quick heat on the aluminum wedge maybe? Any thoughts please?


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 3:24 pm 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Tue Oct 19, 2010 9:55 am
Posts: 7058
Location: The land of Lea & Perrins
Just tw*t it.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 3:37 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2010 1:46 pm
Posts: 15
Location: north Texas
I assume you are suggesting to "twist it". My concern is spinning the allen and rounding the bolt.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 5:38 pm 
retrobike rider
retrobike rider
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Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 2:28 pm
Posts: 247
Location: Bognor Regis
I think he means "hit it" ; in English slang :wink: Is it actually the bolt that is stuck ; or that the stem wedge is stuck in the fork steerer. If it's the wedge ; I would always try loosening the bolt maybe 2 turns ; then hit the top of bolt with a soft hammer/hard hammer + lump of wood.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 2:03 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2010 1:46 pm
Posts: 15
Location: north Texas
Thanks for the translation help. Can't get the bolt to turn. Put enough twist on it to worry about rounding in the allen socket. Looking from below the threaded end of the bolt extends through the wedge a few mm. It looks to have some corrosion present, probably what is keeping it from turning in the wedge. I've used heat on dissimilar metals to get them to break the bond when using a chemical penetrant was not appropriate.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 2:38 pm 
King of the Skip Monkeys
King of the Skip Monkeys
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Joined: Wed Nov 07, 2007 4:34 pm
Posts: 26178
Location: Moomin Valley
drizzle some 3in1 down the exposed threads and leave it a while


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 6:27 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2012 1:31 pm
Posts: 2366
Location: The Cave of Shame
Long thin metal thing up the steerer tube to the base of the bolt then 2 brisk taps with a hammer might be enough to break the corrosion. Choose something softish like Alu so it doesn't mushroom the end of the bolt. If you have enough clearance you may even be able to alternate between tapping the bolt and the underside of the wedge.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 2:10 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader

Joined: Thu Mar 05, 2009 3:07 pm
Posts: 5762
Location: Portsmouth
From my experience, you may have abit of a job on your hands. I had an MC1 last year, off the bike, but the Ti bolt was seized in the wedge. I soaked it in Plusgas penetrating oil for about three days, applied heat with a heat gun each day and tried to undo the bolt. I got about half a turn out of it in the end and thought yes at last it's starting to undo after all those heat cycles and soaking. Then, bang!, the Ti bolt sheared just above where it enters the wedge. Ti has a rough surface and mixed with electrolytic corrosion, caused by two dissimilar metals in contact with each other, and of course the moisture corrosion that had occurred, it was fixed solid.

I had the sheared piece removed by a machining company I use and bought a new bolt.

I hope you have more luck.


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