Retrobike Forum Index

It is currently Fri Dec 09, 2016 1:28 am

* Login   * Register * Search  * FAQ



Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 15 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2
Author Message
 Post subject: Re: Raw steel question
PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 10:56 am 
Devout Dirtbag

Joined: Sun May 19, 2013 10:04 pm
Posts: 115
Cheers for the tips! The hahanna came in a box of spares so didnt make it easy for a newbie like me to identify which parts were from this bike, there was an ea50 riser bar in the velocity stem but it had been scratched ehere it had been pushed through the bend on the riser, I stole the handlebars and put them on my firemountain but have just got hold of some alloy giant riser bars for next to nothing so will put them on the hahanna, will give the penny trick a whirl!

Im probably not looking hard enough but when searching for brands I know difnt find much fsa cane creak etc threaded headsets thanks for the names ill have a look, I may still have the original headset parts but its just all in a box of washers and nuts and bolts and have littke chance of recognising what parts I need!

Yeah doubted the rotory sander would be much use, I used a eire brush on a drill to help strip it but looks like elbow grease from now on


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Raw steel question
PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 9:31 pm 
Devout Dirtbag

Joined: Sun May 19, 2013 10:04 pm
Posts: 115
Spoke to the bloke I left the frame with today, he's had an ask around as was unsure on clear coating raw steel, he's of the opinion it will be better off high polished, and treated as the clear coat won't bond properly?, has anybody done this? What did you use? Is it just going to end up rat look?

I've almost finished my firemountain and now riding it, I love the raw alloy look and like the idea of a raw steel shed buddy for it!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Raw steel question
PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 8:43 pm 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2010 10:07 pm
Posts: 1323
He`s right,your frame needs a key for the clear coat to adhere to,otherwise it will simply run off.I would suggest do as the other lads suggest and get it bead blasted.It will leave a lovely consistent smooth finish and enough of a key for your clear coat(of which 3 coats should be applied).


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Raw steel question
PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 10:26 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
User avatar

Joined: Sat May 09, 2009 11:46 pm
Posts: 3925
Location: East Riding of Yorkshire
If you plan to leave steel raw my recommendation is to get some of this:

Image

I used LPS 3 on the steel forks of my industrial Peugeot as a test as much as anything and after the first application it was about 10 months before the effect seemed to wear off and surface rust began to appear.

I really should given them a proper clean up and reapply some more.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Raw steel question
PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 12:08 am 
Devout Dirtbag

Joined: Sun May 19, 2013 10:04 pm
Posts: 115
Cheers will try and get some of that, think ill leave it raw and treat it and see how it goes, worst comes to the worst ill go the clear coat route


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 15 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2

All times are UTC [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: kyle888, racer x and 33 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  

About Us

Follow Retrobike

Other cool stuff

All content © 2005-2015 Retrobike unless otherwise stated.
Cookies Policy.
bikedeals - the best bike deals in one place
FatCOGS - Fat Chance Owner's Group

Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group