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 Post subject: Raw steel question
PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 11:05 pm 
Devout Dirtbag

Joined: Sun May 19, 2013 10:04 pm
Posts: 115
Hi, I'm currently slowly restoring an old kona hahanna, it was in a right state thrown in a 25 quid job lot of mtb spares from a barn clear out.

I decided to attempt to restore it, it's my 1st retro bike so sorry for any daft questions ill no doubt ask!

I've looked through the threads on the old steel konas on here and they're awesome, I love the repainted white examples but seem to be a few, I also love the strong red/orange frames with black forks etc and black especially matte would be a good shout.

After a couple of weeks of scrubbing the frame like a madman, I want to give raw a try, I'm aware it's "not meant to be" and it may not keep or finish how I plan but I know a sprayer who'll clear coat it for free, so it's worth a punt, if it ages quickly or looks pants ill nitromorse it and get it powdercoated.

For those in the know or have done it what was the final prep you did before spraying the frame?

I literally rubbed the paint off with 80/120 and used wire brushes, wheels etc i have been using 1200 wet and dry and have got a fair finish, I found sanding lengthways brings it to more of a shine but shows up imperfections, I prefer the duller brushed look you get when rotating the paper will the clearcoat take better to a rougher finish?

Any hints would be appreciated


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 Post subject: Re: Raw steel question
PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 7:17 am 
Old School Grand Master
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Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 1:10 am
Posts: 4756
Location: Heathfield, East Sussex
Check out my Explosif in the link below, but that was blast-cleaned of course...

...guess the only answer is lots of elbow grease until you're happy with the finish?


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 Post subject: Re: Raw steel question
PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 9:46 am 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Thu May 03, 2012 7:13 pm
Posts: 2574
Location: The Cock Inn, Tillett, Herts
Do it properly. Glass bead blast for an even, satin finish.


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 Post subject: Re: Raw steel question
PostPosted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 2:52 pm 
Devout Dirtbag

Joined: Sun May 19, 2013 10:04 pm
Posts: 115
Cheers, I'm going to clear coat it, I'll go mad if I sand it any further, not wanting mirror finish, guess I'm going for the "terminator" look, just don't want huge amounts of rust to come through.

If it fails ill strip again, we've done the stem and p2s and they look ok so will have to see

The p2s are threaded, can I fit a non threaded stem to them?? I've got the velocity stem but want to put a riser bar on and don't want to scratch the handlebars.

Also where can I get threaded headsets?, seem decent ones are few and far between, any reccomendations? Cheers


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 Post subject: Re: Raw steel question
PostPosted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 3:25 pm 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
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Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 4:16 pm
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Location: brigg, home of the gypsies
i wouldn't try going from 120 straight to 1200. try getting the scratches out of the 120 with 240 then 400, 600


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 Post subject: Re: Raw steel question
PostPosted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 3:27 pm 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
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Location: brigg, home of the gypsies
to put an "ahead" type stem on yuor threaded steerer you will need a steerer tube extender. some like them some done. some say they are ok off road, some done.

the benefit of doing this though is you can also use an aheadset rather than a threaded one


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 Post subject: Re: Raw steel question
PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 1:11 am 
Devout Dirtbag

Joined: Sun May 19, 2013 10:04 pm
Posts: 115
Cheers, will probsbly hit the frame for a few more days with some finer paper

May try and open the velocity stem up to allow the riser to sit in it, hopefully without damaging it!

Any power tools that can be used to clean up the frame ie a rotary sander? Don't know if I've got it in me to sand the frame any longer!


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 Post subject: Re: Raw steel question
PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 1:49 am 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
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Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 4:16 pm
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Location: brigg, home of the gypsies
Take the stem bolt out, put it in the wrong way and put a penny in the slot. Tightening the bolt will open the stem up a bit, should be enough to get the bar in.

Power tools won't be much use on skinny round tubes.


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 Post subject: Re: Raw steel question
PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 8:37 am 
retrobike rider
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Joined: Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:08 am
Posts: 6851
Location: Nth Somerset, UK
There are plenty of good 1" threaded headset's about, as most old road bikes use them.

Have a look at SJS Cycles, Spa Cycles, or Velo Solo they usually keep a sensible selection.

One thing to be aware of is that the crown race on your fork (where the bearing sits) may be JIS or ISO. Get some calipers on there before you get a headset.

As for quill to ahead adaptors; I have them on a couple of my bikes, including my Raleigh road bike, and I have found they work fine.


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 Post subject: Re: Raw steel question
PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 9:37 am 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Sat Oct 03, 2009 2:37 pm
Posts: 1728
Location: UK Southwest
lewis1641 wrote:
to put an "ahead" type stem on yuor threaded steerer you will need a steerer tube extender. some like them some done. some say they are ok off road, some done.

the benefit of doing this though is you can also use an aheadset rather than a threaded one


NeilM wrote:
As for quill to ahead adaptors; I have them on a couple of my bikes, including my Raleigh road bike, and I have found they work fine.


Yeah i've used one too and had no problems. I used it with a threaded headset though. I dont think I'd feel happy using one with an aheadset.


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