Extending a fork thread....

feetabix

Retrobike Rider
Hi men.......I've just completed a fairly lengthy recon on a manitou 1 fork.......it's gone from a shabby
, seized mess to looking rather good......new elastomers and seals and a good cut back with wet and dry and polish.
The last job is to run the thread on the steerer tube down a further inch to fit it to my clockwork. The steerer is one inch diameter and I need a dye to get the job done. I presume my lbs will do it, but it would be nice to do it myself.
Does anyone have the tool to do it?....... :D
 
Didn't WD Pro do this in his Bear Valley build thread, after a bike shop had made a mess of it?

Don't know whether it was on a 1" steerer though.
 
Not many lbs do this anymore they have either lost the people that could do it, or more than likely never done it in the first place.
 
Same problem, I have some nice Mani's but no LBS in the area would entertain extending the thread, It on needs to be extended 3/4" I am now looking at some engineering companies which may prove costly but worth it :)
 
I can think of 2 in a nearby large town that do it, a bit far for our OP though. The tool rides itself off the existing threads, so it's not like it requires any specials skills or let - just the kit.
 
Neil":2oae3614 said:
Didn't WD Pro do this in his Bear Valley build thread, after a bike shop had made a mess of it?

Don't know whether it was on a 1" steerer though.

Yeah, on a 1" steel steerer after a LBS and then a UK frame builder messed up two pairs of forks for me ...

The tool was loaned from a chain of bike shops that had one at another branch :



Easy to use / do a good job :





Chopped down :



Fitted :



WD :D
 
Possibly a long shot but I remember cutting threads in metalwork at school. Have you tried
local school college to see if you can blag a borrow of a tool.
 
What I will say is that the correct tool also has a guide that goes down the steerer first ensuring the die stays true / straight whilst it cuts - you can see this on the pictures above and the marks on the fork (further down the steerer than the thread) where that part of the tool has been doing its job.

A 100% straight / true thread is not so important on a normal thread / washer / nut assembly due to the tolerances (feel how ‘loose’ a normal nut feels on a bolt before it is tight) but on a tight tolerance thread that is supporting a bearing I think this is a key issue.

Not having a straight thread would be a similar situation to having non parallel head tube faces or pressing a headset in a little pissed and not seating it square. All these issues need to be addressed / correct to have a nice scenario with a properly / evenly loaded bearing.

WD :D
 
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