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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 12:01 pm 
Dirt Disciple
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Joined: Sun May 19, 2013 5:51 pm
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Location: Seaford, East Sussex
Tazio wrote:
Nitromors will be fine and gentle as it's been rubbish ever since the changed the strength of it.


I see, that's interesting to know. I always imagined it from being this highly dangerous solution from all the warnings my Father gave me about it as a younger kid, or stuff like it anyway, so I have this natural apprehension that it will dissolve the Nickel as well… :(

Worth giving it a shot on a small bit and see how it pans out. Didn't realise the Nickely coating was as strong and durable as I have subsequently heard. Assumed, like 'plating' that it was actually quite fragile…


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 1:11 pm 
retrobike rider
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I used good old cheap cellulose thinners (gunwash /basic stuff ) to get the lacquer of the E3 without damaging the ali underneath . It worked a treat .
Matthew


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 7:59 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Location: Perfect Sound Forever
I've stripped a couple of Nickel plated frames now (P7 and Marin Team Issue).

The first thing to remember is that Nickel plating is immensely durable... you can scrub it really hard (to remove the small rust spots and you won't damage the finish).

Nitromors has little effect (imo) on lacquer. As I said on the thread the cheap paint & varnish stripper from B&Q (see pic below) is far superior. Just lather it on with a brush, leave for one hour and when you come back you will see the lacquer has started to bubble.

Then using warm soapy water and a brillo pad (wire wool full of soap) start scrubbing at the frame. The lacquer will come off in stages.

Repeat this process four times (ish) and you'll be stripped. A side benefit is that the brillo pads actually polish the nickel to a really nice finish.

This is where I am now with mine. I plan to use autosol as an abrasive polish to remove the last of the stubborn rust spots.

To give you an idea of time, this has taken me no longer than four hours of work.

It really is very satisfying to see the improvement you can make! Before and after shots to go... Not finished yet, but well on the way. Got all the bits for a nice STX RC build. Don't suppose anyones got a pair of plated F7 lying around doing nothing? :D

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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 8:01 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Also, from the before pictures, can anyone tell me the year from the decals?


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PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 3:55 pm 
Old School Hero
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Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2013 8:47 pm
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Location: Barrrkshire
Same decals as mine which was a 1996


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PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 4:34 pm 
retrobike rider
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Would the cheap stripper and brillo pad approach be OK on an old alu Orange Elite?
More concerned about the brillos - just said cheap stripper cos I could ;)


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 3:14 pm 
Dirt Disciple
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Location: Seaford, East Sussex
ringo wrote:
I've stripped a couple of Nickel plated frames now (P7 and Marin Team Issue).

...
Repeat this process four times (ish) and you'll be stripped. A side benefit is that the brillo pads actually polish the nickel to a really nice finish.



Just started stripping the frame of all components, and removed the BB etc. Just wanted to check that when you said, "repeat 4 times ish", is that relating to application of the Paint Stripper, or simply the scrubbing with warm water and Brillo pad? Don't know why I'm so anxious about this stripping, probably because never done it, and hate to think I would totally trash the bike somehow. :)

Just a few photos of the P7.

ANyone have a clue as to what year as I know the decals are not original on this. Frame number is: A4050320

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 5:46 pm 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Each is a cycle, apply stripper, leave and then brillo and rinse off ready for next application... Do this cycle 4 times ish.

Don't worry, you can't do any harm!


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 10:36 pm 
Devout Dirtbag
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Joined: Sat Aug 04, 2012 7:22 am
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I'm really surprised reading this that you had no luck with Nitromors, I only did 2 coats with it plus some extra for the tougher areas round the welds and voila it was all off. The Nitromors didn't take long to work either, the lacquer was bubbling and coming off as I applied it! Just a couple of hours work really. I did literally coat it on though and judging by some of the varied experiences on here there must be some differences in the lacquers and thickness etc.

Not that it matters what you use to soften the coating I think the key ingredient is the wire wool/brillo pads which as you said had the nice side effect of polishing the frame at the same time. The effort you put in now will pay off in the end though. These frames polish up lovely :-)


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 9:00 am 
retrobike rider / Gold Trader
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Boromedic... It wasn't a really old can of Nitromors you had hiding in the back of the garage was it...?

The modern stuff certainly doesn't bubble on application in my experience! I'm pretty sure you could eat a bowl of the modern stuff with little ill effect*

There's so many P7 resto's going on at the minute, I think a polish off is in order! :D








*Don't try that at home kids...


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