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 Post subject: Re: Fillet brazed frames
PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 8:51 am 
BoTM Winner / retrobike rider
BoTM Winner / retrobike rider
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Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2008 8:24 pm
Posts: 5667
Location: Dorset
Ductape, please stop it...I'm supposed to be leaving for work!


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 Post subject: Re: Fillet brazed frames
PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 8:55 am 
BoTM Winner
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Joined: Sat Mar 21, 2009 6:19 pm
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Location: USA
Ha, I almost ran out. Dirty:

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 Post subject: Re: Fillet brazed frames
PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 8:58 am 
BoTM Winner
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Peekaboo:

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 Post subject: Re: Fillet brazed frames
PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 9:01 am 
BoTM Winner
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Joined: Sat Mar 21, 2009 6:19 pm
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Location: USA
But wait theres more:

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 Post subject: Re: Fillet brazed frames
PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 9:05 am 
BoTM Winner
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Old prewar Schwinn. Often confused with fillet brazing but actually Electroforged:

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After:

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 Post subject: Re: Fillet brazed frames
PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 9:09 am 
BoTM Winner
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Never been able to determine who made his frame. Someday I will remove 8 layers of paint and get a good look at the brazing below:

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 Post subject: Re: Fillet brazed frames
PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 9:10 am 
BoTM Winner
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Some old road bikes were brazed also:

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 Post subject: Re: Fillet brazed frames
PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 9:15 am 
BoTM Winner
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The beauty of it all, certainly not limited to just frames:

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 Post subject: Re: Fillet brazed frames
PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 3:53 pm 
Old School Grand Master

Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:55 pm
Posts: 8202
Location: New Forest, UK
Another reason for fillet brazing is that Reynolds 531 cannot be welded as it is Mn-Mo not Cr-Mo alloy. Most Dawes were fillet brazed even though the big areas of braze looked like welds. My two Dawes tandems are fillet.

So Dawes in 531 or 501 are a good choice. They didn't file the fillets as chunky welds were in vogue; and it presumably saved labour cost on filing the fillets down too.


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 Post subject: Re: Fillet brazed frames
PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 4:41 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Wed Dec 07, 2011 8:30 pm
Posts: 13
Location: North Wales
The old USA-made Cannondales used to have really smooth (welded aluminium, I know) joints. Does anyone know how this finish was achieved? I guess with some sort of sander or grinder, but would it have had to be done by hand?

Slightly off-topic, but it shows that there can be some nice-looking TIG welded joints.


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